WH 3.0 V6 Diesel Injector query

[DarrenR]

*You will find that the glow plug module fault is the glow plugs at fault, worn out or faulty glow plugs are common, i change them on some at 100k others at 400k *shrugs*.

As Ive already mentioned somewhere else (jk diesel post), not calibrating new injectors (actually its calibrating the ECM to the new injectors) wont stop it running, driving etc etc and you will be lucky if you can pick the difference in idle.

Yes the ideal situation is to input the injector data for the ECM etc.

As mentioned, check the two fuel hoses that are attached to the fuel filter, also note that some replacement fuel filters dont have the two o-ring seals that also need to be replaced.

Regards
Daz

[captjim]

Hi Mate,
A couple of things to consider.
Glow plugs/module probs will not affect power or fuel consumption, mine have been coding for 3 years but as I live in Qld I , ve managed to get by without them.
Get a code reader as there are alot of items to look for.
Your scream at load could be a boost leak, your map reading should be around 22+ psi at full power.
I get an O2 sensor code every now and then and it results in an increase in fuel consumption. After reset it stays away for a few months so I haven't bothered fixing.
I f you have any codes to do with egr or swirl motor buy the GDE tune to eliminate them, its cheaper in the long run and the motor will thankyou in the long term.
Ebay injectors from Germany to suit were$250 a year ago. Jim.

[White Cloud]

Hi again all

After considering your advice I have ordered the sfx code reader.

I have researched cleaning the egr and will do.

Unfortuneatly I begun hearing loud thumping noises as I shifted between park and d etc. as well as sometimes when slowing down and the transmission dropping a gear.

I have taken the WH to a jeep dealer who tells me three transmission mounts are broken. I think this a big repair and most likely hoists etc required - so I have given the go ahead to the dealer to replace the mounts. At least the injectors are still working and its still starting well as I use it every day. And another problem has arisen - the low range switch is bringing up an alarm - which the dealer says the code reader says is a faulty electric motor in the transfer case.

So things can change pretty quick eh?

Thanks again for all your help

White Cloud

[Clarky]

Sit back & have a read of this
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=128329

Find out what code it is, I bet its C140F & recall related. Should only needs the latest flash done.
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...k_2102214a.pdf

DON'T let them change the T/C motor before the update.

[JamesLaugesen]

Originally Posted by White Cloud

Hi again all

After considering your advice I have ordered the sfx code reader.

I have researched cleaning the egr and will do.

Unfortuneatly I begun hearing loud thumping noises as I shifted between park and d etc. as well as sometimes when slowing down and the transmission dropping a gear.

I have taken the WH to a jeep dealer who tells me three transmission mounts are broken. I think this a big repair and most likely hoists etc required - so I have given the go ahead to the dealer to replace the mounts. At least the injectors are still working and its still starting well as I use it every day. And another problem has arisen - the low range switch is bringing up an alarm - which the dealer says the code reader says is a faulty electric motor in the transfer case.

So things can change pretty quick eh?

Thanks again for all your help

White Cloud

Dang.
The R-N-D clunk is almost definitely the front differential bushes.
There's 3 of them; one at the front is replaced as a single bolt-on unit which is easy (like a 20 minute job.).
The other two are press-fit bushes, one above the drivers-side output shaft, and the other is sort-of above the input shaft.

I think quotes are usually around $600-$1k.
It seems like most of us have been able to do it in around 3-5hrs at home.
A hoist would make it heaps easier, but it's not too hard on the floor.
Using a hacksaw or recipricating saw to (carefully) cut the steel outer of the bushes is a big help; then they'll pretty-much just fall out.
New ones are easy to fit with a normal G-clamp style press, just like any other press-fit (aka steel-outer.) bush.

The low range code is almost definitely the "N23 debacle" - Find that thread on here and read as much as you can... it's HUGE. There's a specific code for that problem - I think Clarky has mentioned the code reader you've ordered can read and clear it on the CRD.

Essentially anything with the words "transfer-case motor", "transfer-case actuator", "tcm" (which is sometimes incorrectly used to mean 'transfer-case motor, even though Chrysler use it to mean 'transmission control module'.) or "fdcm" (final drive control module.) should be covered by a series of recalls - Make sure you're not charged for any of that. The "N23 recall" thread will give you plenty of evidence if your dealer is difficult.

[White Cloud]

In my last post I mentioned a few problems have arisen - transmission mounts and service 4wd dash alarm.

I had the transmission mounts replaced in late feb and the dash alarm looked at as well as a minor service by a Sydney jeep dealer- before a trip south to moruya.

I broke down last weekend - requiring a tow to a jeep dealer in port Macquarie. The front tail shaft join to the centre diff failed was the reason for the tow. Whilst the vehicle was under the hoist some issues were pointed out to meby the repairer;
the ABS cable on the FRH wheel was unsecured which meant it was flapping in the breeze as I was motoring along - the cable eventually was worn thru by the inside of the rim - resulting in intermittent dash alarms
The failed joint had a perished boot cover allowing dried out grease to throw out resulting in the joint failure - surely you would think this would be identified in one of the previous services - I was told that this joint would have been involved in the recent transmission mount replacements?
Also the FLHS driveshaft seal to the front diff was distorted out of shape allowing diff oil to leak out - again surely during the recent transmission mount replacement this should have been identified (I think this part was actually replaced in the repair!)

The repair job by the Port Mac repairer was most satisfactory so far - he also may have solved the service 4wd alarm issue - by doing a software upgrade.

So maybe the above infor might give fellow jeepers a few ideas on what to look out for.

Also regarding my initial post i have replaced the battery and the glow plugs - resulting in much improved starting. I purchased the glow plugs and glow plug socket tool and glow plug cable remover for 220 from Repco - a lot lot cheaper than my initial enquiries. Repco say they can do a good price for injectors as well.

My code reader arrived before easter but with all the above going on _ I havent hooked it up yet.

I've noticed the rubber boots on my ball joints are perished - so theres another job.

These are the issue you face if you keep your car past 200000klm

keeponjeepin!

[White Cloud]

For some reason I missed Clarky and James' February replies? Probably I am the problem LOL
I just seen them so thanks guys - In a way my story above fits with your advice. I was not charged for the software update and I was overcharged for the february transmission mount replacements - about double what James estimated.
I have prepared a lengthy claim for reimbursement and sent it to the Sydney Jeep dealer - no names - yet. I telephoned the dealer when the breakdown occurred and several times since. The service manager is always busy and doesnt return my calls. So maybe this will be a long battle, I have been succesfully done this raod before - one has to be patient and mindful of the opposition strategies.
So my remaining issues now are;
-increased fuel consumption since fitting bfg's - more surface resistance of that tyre?
-replacing the perished boots on the front ball joints