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  #8  
Old 28-12-2013
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A quality 10w 40 should be fine.
Do you spend lots of time idling or running under very light loads? If so the bores can glaze up because diesels need to be loaded up to expand rings out. Running the wrong oil, ones with very high friction modifiers will exasperate the problem.
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  #9  
Old 28-12-2013
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I am running 5-40 fully sythentic for diesels, don't worry too much about brand names.
I top up about 2 litres around 8000 klm and change oil and filter every 12-14000 ks.
Nothing has changed for the last 50,000klm so cannot see any reason to change anything now on 140,000klm.

On the provent I installed one @ 105000 klm and around 115000 it started to leak on the outlet of the provent...what a mess oil everywhere.
I would estimate the provent collects about 300mils every 8000klm.

At a guess I would suspect at least that goes straight thru the provent.

I have piped the outlet of the provent to the rear of car, the inside of the pipe is very oily and quite often there is a couple drips of oil when parked.
Sometimes you can see smoke leaving the pipe from the provent outlet.

I am happy in the knowledge no oil can possibly leak onto the swirl motor or gum up the ERG soot because only air from the air cleaner / filter gets delivered to the turbine.

As a side issue, a USA Jeep mechanic told me to check the inter cooler hoses for oil damage as a result of crankcase fume and oil blowing thru them.
  #10  
Old 29-12-2013
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2L in 8000km sounds rather heavy for a low kay motor , I would expect less than 1L.
5w is very thin and this may be part of the issue.
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  #11  
Old 29-12-2013
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I understood that the type of oil used ie syn or mineral in the WH diesel depended on wether it had the particulate filter or not.It also should meet the the Merc specs.However if the vehicle is out of warranty its not so much of an issue.I had a mate who worked for two major oil distributors and it was his view that most people towing caravans etc he spoke to should have had shorter oil change intervals.Auto trans oils are killed by heat and definately should be changed earlier than the book states.ie around 30000klms.
  #12  
Old 31-12-2013
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[QUOTE=hotqld;1437127]I am running 5-40 fully sythentic for diesels, don't worry too much about brand names.
I top up about 2 litres around 8000 klm and change oil and filter every 12-14000 ks.
Nothing has changed for the last 50,000klm so cannot see any reason to change anything now on 140,000klm.

On the provent I installed one @ 105000 klm and around 115000 it started to leak on the outlet of the provent...what a mess oil everywhere.
I would estimate the provent collects about 300mils every 8000klm.

At a guess I would suspect at least that goes straight thru the provent.

I have piped the outlet of the provent to the rear of car, the inside of the pipe is very oily and quite often there is a couple drips of oil when parked.
Sometimes you can see smoke leaving the pipe from the provent outlet.

I am happy in the knowledge no oil can possibly leak onto the swirl motor or gum up the ERG soot because only air from the air cleaner / filter gets delivered to the turbine.

As a side issue, a USA Jeep mechanic told me to check the inter cooler hoses for oil damage as a result of crankcase fume and oil blowing thru them.[/QUOTE

Funny that
The connection on my provent started leaking as well we originally used plastic corners and adapters made new ones from copper piping problem solved

My OM642 used the same amount of oil at 280,000 k,s that's why I went to mineral oil problem solved

I spoke to a guy on the BITOG forum and he said they had the same problem with new Mercedes ambulances they had just got in the UK because they where using oil and the previous models ambulance did not they ended up with a lot of blown motors under warranty seems MB countered with shorter service intervals

I service my auto every 50,000 regardless on all my cars

Change the engine oil every 20,000

Last edited by Doc; 01-01-2014 at 11:13 AM.
  #13  
Old 01-01-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbomart View Post
5w is very thin and this may be part of the issue.
5W is only the viscosity when cold. Cold 0W-40 is still much thicker than hot 15W-40.
  #14  
Old 02-01-2014
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Dunno where you got that from.
Your right tho about the first number 0w or 5w represents the viscosity when cold, -18 deg celcius from memory. The upper number , ie 40 , represents hot viscosity tested at 100 deg celsius also from memory.
These two viscosities are tested using a different scale so cannot be compared, ie oil does not get thicker.
The first number therefore represents the oils cold viscosity and the second number is its resistance to thinning out.
Therefore a 5w-40 will be thicker up to 100 deg than a 0w-40 at which point they will be the same.
Theres also a lot else to look at with oils, the amount of detergents in the oil the amount of friction modifiers ,etc.
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