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  #8  
Old 23-05-2012
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Default which way do you install the one way valve ?

is it to stop vacuum air entering the EGR or vice versa
  #9  
Old 24-05-2012
davidd  davidd is offline
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yep. install so that vacuum from the solenoid closes the valve.
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Old 24-05-2012
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Hi Davidd,

Are you sure this is for the 2011+ models as well? As far as i can see it's all electronic ...

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Old 24-05-2012
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with the significant changes to the inlet/air management between the 07 to 2010 euro 4 engine with a cast alloy intake and the 2011 and newer euro 5 engine with a black injection moulded plastic intake I would be ignoring any references to the earlier motor.

Also its just me but I wouldn't go pissfarting around with it. if you need to clean the manifold every 100,000km so be it.

Last edited by Yom; 24-05-2012 at 10:07 AM.
  #12  
Old 24-05-2012
davidd  davidd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p13 View Post
Hi Davidd,

Are you sure this is for the 2011+ models as well? As far as i can see it's all electronic ...

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
after yom's post, i'll bow out mate. was not aware of the change to an electronic egr valve. i have an 07. you could still bypass the valve i suggest by removing the plug from the valve and probably putting an appropriate resistor across the plug terminals. but what size i don't know. perhaps if you measured the internal resistance of the egr valve solenoid and applied a resistor of that size it may work. i'll bet there's a thousand blokes on the site who can solve this one if they cared to weigh in. must be a few with sufficient knowledge of electronics to give the answer here. my young bloke has an isuzu ute with an electronic egr valve. he'd love the answer too.
  #13  
Old 24-05-2012
gusthewonderslug  gusthewonderslug is offline
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Pics Please
  #14  
Old 24-05-2012
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Yom, it's not just an issue of cleaning out the intake body every 100,00kms, I wish that was so. The EGR system on Jeep CRDs, regardless of year or model, recycles not just gases but soot. Soot will destroy an engine, it will score cylinder walls, it will erode rings, if will plug-up and restrict the intake tract to the point that performance and fuel economy will be significantly affected. Some of the things that you can do to stop that:

Buy it new and wack a Provent on as soon as you get it home - this will stop the oil mist turning the soot into cement inside the intake body and clogging the EGR valve.

In some models you can block the EGR without generating a code or CEL, just have a look at all the EGR blocking shims on ebay and pick up one to make it fit to the Jeep. I run a coin blocker in my EGR pipe and it works a treat and has a high enough melting point that I don't have to worry about it coming apart and no Jeep Service guy can see it. Yes, GDE do significantly reduce EGR opening, but they can't (by law) sell a product to stop ir, they also use the EGR valve to bleed overboost but on a variable vane turbo the vanes feather straight away on lift off anyway so it's not really an issue from my persective.

Clean out as much of the muck as you can on a regular basis, some of the Vm engines can have much of the intake tract disassembled so that the intake elbow, egr valve, etc can be reached for cleaning. It's a messy job but makes a difference. And don't think because you run a Provent that it won't need it.

I've said my piece. My son has a 2008 JKU CRD and he has done nothing to it - the intake tract is a mess but he doesn't care about it. My 2007 KJ CRD, Provent since new, blocked EGR, GDE ECO tune, is about as clean as I can get it and it's a rocket compared to my son's JK - which was great when it was new. The problem is that the owner doesn't tend to notice the degrading of performance over a long period of time and just excepts it.

Last edited by glend; 24-05-2012 at 03:12 PM.
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