lift kit help please

[MattB]

Originally Posted by SeaComms

Keep it low and keep it stable. Personally I would not go more than 3.5 with a 4 door and 2.5 with a 2 door, its just not needed (the difference is for the extra belly clearance on the 4 door). Stick with known brands like AEV or the gear from DBOR like Synergy / Poly Performance etc.

Once you get over 2.5in you need to look at all the usual stuff that should be in a 2.5 in lift like sway bar link extensions, trackbar brackets for the rear, adjustable front sway bar, caster correction for the front. Go to 3.5 and over and now you need adjustable control arms, high steer kit, new driveshafts with double cardan joints etc. You also will have much more body roll from the increased height so will require either stiffer springs or new sway bars to tame it down.

its always scared me how much extra you buy for a 3inch compared to a 2.5in. i just cant help but think that with 8flex arms, ront swaybar disconnects, rear swaybar links, rear trackbar bracket and front brake lines that they just seem to want to eliminate stress on components. Where with the 2.5 in which is only about 12mm smaller just seems like "she'll be right, don't need to change that its good enough. Maybe im paranoid, but i would love to be sold on a 2.5in just worried about reliability. I hate to be a burden, but i just dont want to come down hard while offroading one day and something snapping because it was designed for something with 2.5in smaller springs. I haven't got a lift yet, just want to do it once is all. Would love to be put at ease about the 2.5 inch lift. Finally to end my rant of annoying endless questions i always have (sorry). I have a heavy bullbar/winch on the front. Would it be wise to get small spacers on the front on top of a normal lift kit to just raise that front up again ? ( front Ruggedridge bumper and winch weight roughly 80-88kg )

[LeighP]

After my winch and bar combo go on, I'm having my local 4WD suspension specialist respring and shock my car and set it at it's "design ride height". They use scragged springs, to combat the spring sagging in use.
My 2013 Jk has already sunk about 15+mm in the front and around 25+mm in the rear due to sag of the factory springs. Add in the 20-30mm I'm bound to lose adding the bar and winch and I'll be quite low.
I have 32's on the car now, when they wear out I'll add 33's.....but thats all I'll need. With correct stock height and 33" tyres, a 2 door's break over angle will be quite good, and work well for the places I go. Best part is, no need to modify any of the arms, brackets and rods under the car.

[yeahright]

Originally Posted by spendy4x4

Thank you all for your input. im a new jeep owner and getting into 4x4ing just now.

I just wanted it to have max clearance and also look jacked as fk ! but after reading all your thoughts i realise it is abit much lol.

they sit quite high standard so i think 2.5 with some new flares should do the trick

again thanks all appreciate it.

Cam

Mate I have run 2.5 and 3.5 inch AEV and now I'm on 4.5 inch synergy springs, fox shocks an no control arms, I do have the old AEV drop brackets with the holes for 2.5 and 3.5 inch lift. I had a wheel alignment done last Friday and my castor is 4.19 degrees. Standard is 4.00, so the control arms are not entirely necessary, I also have DBOR flat flares and 35s, I think it looks the goods, if I can find a pic I will post it. Yes a JK does not need a lot of lift, but I find mine flexes and rides it's best as it is now.

[SeaComms]

Originally Posted by MattB

its always scared me how much extra you buy for a 3inch compared to a 2.5in. i just cant help but think that with 8flex arms, ront swaybar disconnects, rear swaybar links, rear trackbar bracket and front brake lines that they just seem to want to eliminate stress on components. Where with the 2.5 in which is only about 12mm smaller just seems like "she'll be right, don't need to change that its good enough. Maybe im paranoid, but i would love to be sold on a 2.5in just worried about reliability. I hate to be a burden, but i just dont want to come down hard while offroading one day and something snapping because it was designed for something with 2.5in smaller springs. I haven't got a lift yet, just want to do it once is all. Would love to be put at ease about the 2.5 inch lift. Finally to end my rant of annoying endless questions i always have (sorry). I have a heavy bullbar/winch on the front. Would it be wise to get small spacers on the front on top of a normal lift kit to just raise that front up again ? ( front Ruggedridge bumper and winch weight roughly 80-88kg )

Yeah, I went with 2.5 and stuck but stuck in an adjustable front track bar, rear track bar bracket and AEV drop brackets just to be sure.

As for the sag, it depends on what springs you use. I bought the Flexi Coils from Suspension Stuff, though don't think you can still get them. At the time you simply advised Shane what the vehicle was, what accessories you had and how high you wanted it and he supplied springs to suit. I ended up with 4 springs all of different lengths ad the vehicle ended up exactly where I wanted it on all 4 corners. Now 45,000km and almost 2 years later it is still at the exact same height and rides just the same as it did when I fitted it.

[MattB]

Thanks guys. Appreciate all the Feedback. I'm in no hurry for a Lift kit so ill still be reading into everyone's opinions , but thanks to you guys ill be more open minded about 2.5in lifts. i Think when the time comes no matter what i plan, ill still prob go down to SBR offroad and ask there opinion seems pretty well respected here in Perth.

[spendy4x4]

Originally Posted by AK-RUBI

4.5" synergy rock crawler lift from DDOR with 35's and fox racing shocks. Now i have it i would not go anything lower.

how much did that setup cost ya man? looks very nice!"

[AK-RUBI]

Originally Posted by spendy4x4

how much did that setup cost ya man? looks very nice!"

Here you go
http://www.doubleblackoffroad.com/je...5--Crawler-Kit