steering dead spot

[Wooders]

Ok XJ box will work ok. Slightly more tursn lock to lock, but this should not result in a deadspot in the steering unless the box is worn or loose.
However the XJ pitman has more drop (as you've found out), if you choose to run it you should also lower the panhard mount at the chassis end to reailign the geometry between the panhard & draglink. otherwise they travel in slightly different archs and this should give some bumpsteer.

[MidnightRiders]

Originally Posted by Wooders

Ok XJ box will work ok. Slightly more tursn lock to lock, but this should not result in a deadspot in the steering unless the box is worn or loose.
However the XJ pitman has more drop (as you've found out), if you choose to run it you should also lower the panhard mount at the chassis end to reailign the geometry between the panhard & draglink. otherwise they travel in slightly different archs and this should give some bumpsteer.

do you stock replacement bushes for the track bar? It's adam with the TJ
Also do you have a stock pitman arm? I lost mine when the mechanic threw my old box in the bin... And yes. bump steer, and wandering. especially during lane changes. Have to do it in 2 movements.

[Tyvokka]

Originally Posted by MidnightRiders

I see no anti roll bushing.. Which one are you referring to?
link takes me to their contact details, but found nothing in steering section.

I don't have the same problem as you do. Mine was a worn out tie rod pitman arm end angle problem which had prematurely worn the bushing out. I nearly went the drop pitman arm way but was advised against it because another member from the UK had massive problem with a drop pitman arm, similar to you. I ended up doing a Z link to correct the acute angle issue that was grinding the bush.

The pictured boot is on the second page of EJS magazine I was reading and I thought might be of help to you. I don't really know what it is or have any experience there. That's why I suggested for you to call and speak to them directly....from the horses mouth so to speak.

Good luck and let us know how it goes..

Cheers

[MidnightRiders]

Originally Posted by JGW

I don't have the same problem as you do. Mine was a worn out tie rod pitman arm end angle problem which had prematurely worn the bushing out. I nearly went the drop pitman arm way but was advised against it because another member from the UK had massive problem with a drop pitman arm, similar to you. I ended up doing a Z link to correct the acute angle issue that was grinding the bush.

The pictured boot is on the second page of EJS magazine I was reading and I thought might be of help to you. I don't really know what it is or have any experience there. That's why I suggested for you to call and speak to them directly....from the horses mouth so to speak.

Good luck and let us know how it goes..

Cheers

Thank you for the advice. My jeep always had oem type steering after lifting. just gradually got to where it is today. new heavy duty tie rod from SBR, new teraflex steering damper from double black, second hand good steering box, good second hand lower steering shaft. only thing not touched was drag link, and added dropped pitman arm. I am definately going to get that bush. I found it when i came back and looked at the photo you posted. derr.... wasnt paying attention.

[Wooders]

Originally Posted by MidnightRiders

do you stock replacement bushes for the track bar? It's adam with the TJ
Also do you have a stock pitman arm? I lost mine when the mechanic threw my old box in the bin... And yes. bump steer, and wandering. especially during lane changes. Have to do it in 2 movements.

Yes & Yes.

[Tyvokka]

If you have driven a Jeep, you know the feeling. The steering wheel goes two inches to the right, two inches to the left and then back again, while your vehicle stays in a relatively straight line. That is the result of your Tie Rod rolling forward and backward forward and backward again and again. That's simply because there is nothing there to prevent it from doing that. And early wear on tie rods simply because they are always in motion. This results in torn tie rod boots because they have been flexed a jillion times in.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...w=&range_high=



$19 buxes. Just bought a couple as my steering does wander a bit.

[Wooders]

Err you did read that these are intended for 1ton TRE's?
The roll they describe is very much a factor in over the knuckle steering or with T link but not so much in under the knuckle Y link.
Potentially a good solution for those modifying their steering not so sure about thise with stock or regular HD steering.