DBOR front disconnects

[dimo]

Originally Posted by AroGantz

The Teraflex ones do work in a similar fashion but are much easier to install since they attach to the body mount. I bought the Synergy dc's from DBOR and the pins were too big for the bushings, luckily I have access to a lathe and someone who knows how to use it and he took 3mm of them for me.

Thanks for the info, is it worth waiting till the Teraflex come back in stock, I will be having them installed professionally so if the DBOR install is significantly longer to do it would obviously cost me extra (being done at Trax Industries).

[WhiteMeat]

Originally Posted by dimo

Thanks for the info, is it worth waiting till the Teraflex come back in stock, I will be having them installed professionally so if the DBOR install is significantly longer to do it would obviously cost me extra (being done at Trax Industries).

FYI - Some peeps on this forum haven't been too keen on the Teraflex disconnects (specifically the bushings in the disconnects)

[Rodent]

The ARB/DBOR kit is hardly a difficult to install kit either.

1 beer job, maybe 2 beers if it's a Fri/Sat night.

[Freetripper]

[quote name="WhiteMeat" post=1530265]Assuming that your sway bar isn't as tight as ... well ... a bar that cant be moved to get the disconnects into place...



Teh DBOR ones, take out r clips from the lower mounts on both sides, swing the arms up on both sides before physically moving the sway bar, hook one side onthe the keeper pins at the top & put the r clip in to keep it in place - done. To reverse - level surface and all that sh!t...



As said, so long as you dont have a sway bar that is too tight to move to the correct angle to get the sway links to the keeper pins at the top - you'll be fine[/quote]


I keep a rubber mallet, small crowbar and a can of inox to make disconnecting /and reconnecting easier, can't always find a level spot and a little very gentle persuasion can help. Inox won't deteriorate the rubber bushings and helps it slip in better. It's a pain in the arse when its wet but I now keep a $2 tarp in the car for laying on while doing it.


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[Rodent]

I used to use a similar process until I just layed down underneath the bulbar and pushed up on it with two hands whilst using my foot to push the link back on the pin.

[outbreakmonkey]

The ARB/DBOR discos are supposedly better because they have grease nipples. Last longer etc etc but what they don't tell you is that you need a grease gun with a 90 degree bend or you have to take the wheel off.

[WhiteMeat]

Originally Posted by Freetripper

[quote name="WhiteMeat" post=1530265]Assuming that your sway bar isn't as tight as ... well ... a bar that cant be moved to get the disconnects into place...



Teh DBOR ones, take out r clips from the lower mounts on both sides, swing the arms up on both sides before physically moving the sway bar, hook one side onthe the keeper pins at the top & put the r clip in to keep it in place - done. To reverse - level surface and all that sh!t...



As said, so long as you dont have a sway bar that is too tight to move to the correct angle to get the sway links to the keeper pins at the top - you'll be fine

I keep a rubber mallet, small crowbar and a can of inox to make disconnecting /and reconnecting easier, can't always find a level spot and a little very gentle persuasion can help. Inox won't deteriorate the rubber bushings and helps it slip in better. It's a pain in the arse when its wet but I now keep a $2 tarp in the car for laying on while doing it.


Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Jeep Offroad mobile app[/QUOTE]


My links are fine, it's the sway bar itself that won't move into the correct position - highest it will go is to about horizontal before becoming a pain in the butt - I have just been disconnecting and zip tieing instead of booking them onto the upper pins


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