Newbie looking to buy WJ/WG

[JeanLuke]

Not quite. You need to get a genuine ELM327 interface, not a knock-off from eBay. The software runs on an Android phone (or tablet) and the ELM327 is just the interface.

What city are you in? The 2.7 CRD owners here are generally helpful. If you ask, somebody local to you might be willing to help check out your WJ.

(Minor point - if it's a 2.7 CRD then technically it is a WG, not WJ.)

[ShaneWJ]

Oh OK.

I will be in Melbourne looking at one.

From my research they are the same thing just the WG was shipped internationally? Is this correct?

Thanks

[JeanLuke]

Pretty much. The 2.7 WG comes from Austria. The WJ is made in USA. They are basically the same. Just not most of the propulsion system.

[bodgie]

Originally Posted by ShaneWJ

Hi,

I've been looking through the forum for a while as I'm interested in purchasing a WJ GC. 2.7 CRD.
Besides the usual things and checking under the engine cover around the injectors for leakage, what else are the little traps to look out for with these?

My best advice is, if you aren't mechanically minded, avoid a CRD at all costs.

Any saving in fuel will be burnt quickly in expensive parts and possibly labour if you can't diagnose and fix it yourself.

Don't get me wrong, when they are running well, they are a fantastic vehicle and I'm still happy to push mine around with 250,000km on the clock.

Any CRD vehicle is going to be problematic as it ages, know what you're potentially buying into before you do the deal.

Common issues are injector seals (black death), injectors and high pressure pumps. Water pumps, idler bearings (4 of them), viscous heater pump bearing, alternator overrun pulleys are all common failure points on the engine. If it sounds really noisey in the engine bay it's probably because the bearings are stuffed.

Depending on K's you may need some suspension parts, such as bushes, balljoints etc. Check tyre wear to give you an indication of what is happening.

Originally Posted by ShaneWJ

- Heater door.

Easy to check in winter if the air is cold when the temp says high the door is stuffed, easy to fix too with the right part.

HTH, and good luck.

Jason

[ShaneWJ]

So all the diesels are made in Austria?

Thanks

[ShaneWJ]

Originally Posted by bodgie

My best advice is, if you aren't mechanically minded, avoid a CRD at all costs.

Any saving in fuel will be burnt quickly in expensive parts and possibly labour if you can't diagnose and fix it yourself.

Don't get me wrong, when they are running well, they are a fantastic vehicle and I'm still happy to push mine around with 250,000km on the clock.

Any CRD vehicle is going to be problematic as it ages, know what you're potentially buying into before you do the deal.

Common issues are injector seals (black death), injectors and high pressure pumps. Water pumps, idler bearings (4 of them), viscous heater pump bearing, alternator overrun pulleys are all common failure points on the engine. If it sounds really noisey in the engine bay it's probably because the bearings are stuffed.

Depending on K's you may need some suspension parts, such as bushes, balljoints etc. Check tyre wear to give you an indication of what is happening.



Easy to check in winter if the air is cold when the temp says high the door is stuffed, easy to fix too with the right part.

HTH, and good luck.

Jason

Some good advice. Thanks.

I'm no expert in diesels ect but I like tinkering and I'm pretty handy on the tools (Fitter Machinist by trade).

Having not heard one before I would assume being an MB motor it should be on the lower end of noisy but those early CRD engines were not the quietest.

Its done 180k and sounds like just a typical city tractor with no towing or off road use (so he says).

He had some injector seals just done recently also as the black death was rearing its head.

Thoughts?

[Ben-n-Jo]

Originally Posted by ShaneWJ

Will it stall if they are bad?

Shouldn't stall at idle. Cut out at high revs as rail pressure drops below spec and ecu turns off injectors.

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