3.6 Petrol Oil Choices

[shep]

I live 300km from darwin and do a lot of driving in 45+ deg heat. 5w30 has never been an issue and it’s never used a drop of oil in 160000km

[emac]

I've just had the LH head replaced in my 2011 3.6l, dreaded cylinder misfire

and the dealer replaced the oil with 5/20 genuine synthetic mopar oil.

seems to run ok but i still think i prefer 5/30

ill be changing the oil again in a couple of thousand km just in case any crud got into it when they had it apart.

[drover]

After a head change I would be doing a filter/oil change after about 2K at least, going to a 5W30, a higher grade than recomended is always an option I prefer, as just gives that little bit extra if working the engine with load which I do .... any noticeable rise in eng temp is more likely to be a cooling system problem.........10K oil/filter changes.

There are also reports that the lower oil grade is more for fuel economy, (stars on the sticker) than a longer lasting engine.

[croweater]

Drover: Yes agreed 5w20 seems a bit thin for Oz, the Mopar US website says for the 3.6 and 5.7 petrol engines:

We recommend you use API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil, meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 such as MOPAR®, Pennzoil®, and Shell Helix®. Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct SAE grade.

The OZ Shell Helix website says Helix Ultra SN 0W-20

Penrite Enviro+ GF-5 5W-30 is certified for Pentastar V6 engines that specify MS-6395 as sys so specifically on their website.

Penrite Enviro+ 5W-20 they say is also MS-6395 compliant but there is no mention of Jeep or the 3.6L Pentstar motor in the description.

Thus I'm sorta leaning towards the Penrite Enviro+ GF-5 5W-30.

How do you think the stealership would react if I turned up with that at my first service??

[jeepsgofaster]

For the op 5/30 would be my choice to start with.

IMO the tragedy of modern manufactures oil recommendations is that the paying public still believes that the manufacturer recommends oils/oil change intervals base on what is best for the longevity of your engine and drive train.

I'm afraid that train left the station a decade or two back.

Number one on their list is to pass emissions laboratory tests. Number two is to use extraordinary thin oils to help their engines push forward in efficiency testing so they have some nice numbers to present to the glossy magazines for marketing. Like wise with oil change intervals ect for servicing because all the magazines ect publish running cost based on the manufacturers service schedule and efficiency numbers you now have vastly extended oil change intervals at the same time you have much harder worked thinner oils. That's why you get lifetime transmission oil in some vars now and the intank fiel filters they say never need cleaning.

General type of engine, ambient temperature and type of use dictates the oil the engine needs

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[drover]

Croweater, if they didn't like it I would find someone else to do it ...... I always think a trusted mechanic is far better than a dealership for workmanship, cost and job quality, their livelihood depends on their workmanship where a dealership the mechanics are working to a time frame and job card.

[croweater]

Drover yes I agree, as soon as I get to the Sunshine Coast I'll be looking around for a decent mechanic I can trust.