Rear engine seal leak - replaced twice now and still leaking

[Mudgee hunter]

Ive heard on youtube to leave both glued and no glued seals sit for 24hrs before driving.
This was to let the seal relax and settle correctly on the non adhesive type.
Is 5/40W the manufacturers spec?
Perhaps next change go with specs.
I've heard full synthetic can give hassles on older motors.

[glend]

5W40 is the manufacturer specified oil, so that is ok.
I do have a problem with people being told to on-sell vehicles with problems like this. If you sell it you should fully disclose the block repair to any potential buyer.
I would suggest you drive it as long as you can, but scrap it or part it out when it gets bad again. Consider the age of the vehicle, it really is not worth much, any fix is going to cost more than you would get parting it out.

My personal experience sinking money into my pristine low kilometre KJ CRD, is that you will never get back much when you sell it. Look at as a cost by year thing, once that starts going up, time to let it go. If you have leaks developing, or chronic or expensive repairs, then just let it go.
Unless you are one of the people who think they will become classic collectors items (sure), but a classic has to be over 30 years old; are you prepared to store it that long?

[Classic Boy]

Originally Posted by Tom&Phet

My mechanic said the worse words when i picked it up...."i would get rid of it soon"....
Tom

I have had some experience with epoxy metal “weld” like JB Weld and in areas where the repair experiences no water or oil pressure it holds really well. The proviso is the parent area needs to be really well prepped and it sounds like you mechanic did that. I feel your mechanic may have advised you to move it on because with these type of repairs being rare and unique no one has a guide to there longevity, so he is likely acting with an abundance or caution.

[indiedog]

Originally Posted by glend

....... Look at it as a cost by year thing......

This. Keeping my KJ on the road really doesn't cost that much, maybe somewhere between $1000 and $1500 a year. This is with me doing a lot of the work (This week I replaced the two rear axle shaft oil seals after one let go with 260,000km on it. Chalk up another skill learned via YouTube. Cost was $150 instead of around $700). And I'm no mechanic. This is pretty low cost motoring all up.

[Tom&Phet]

Originally Posted by Classic Boy

I have had some experience with epoxy metal “weld” like JB Weld and in areas where the repair experiences no water or oil pressure it holds really well. The proviso is the parent area needs to be really well prepped and it sounds like you mechanic did that. I feel your mechanic may have advised you to move it on because with these type of repairs being rare and unique no one has a guide to there longevity, so he is likely acting with an abundance or caution.

Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.
I spoke to a couple of people and came to the conclusion to go the "swap engine" option. The amount of money spent so far on the Jeep and the way it is running would make it very hard to part with.
So for now i'm getting my list of parts together i think I will need for a engine swap i.e. gaskets, timing belt kit, Turbo gasket kit...

Is there anything worth while doing before the new second hand engine goes back in? Thinking of injector & fuel pump service.
The new (old) engine comes from South Port wreckers in QLD with 182'km from a 2006 model.
Cheers

[Tom&Phet]

Originally Posted by glend

5W40 is the manufacturer specified oil, so that is ok.
I do have a problem with people being told to on-sell vehicles with problems like this. If you sell it you should fully disclose the block repair to any potential buyer.
I would suggest you drive it as long as you can, but scrap it or part it out when it gets bad again. Consider the age of the vehicle, it really is not worth much, any fix is going to cost more than you would get parting it out.

My personal experience sinking money into my pristine low kilometre KJ CRD, is that you will never get back much when you sell it. Look at as a cost by year thing, once that starts going up, time to let it go. If you have leaks developing, or chronic or expensive repairs, then just let it go.
Unless you are one of the people who think they will become classic collectors items (sure), but a classic has to be over 30 years old; are you prepared to store it that long?

Yes Glend that is part of my dilemma. I'm one of those honest ones that would not feel well selling anything broken without disclosure hence the engine swap.
So far the Jeep has been good, fun and economical (for it's size) to drive. Our Jeep is set up for touring with the rear seats removed. It serves us (wife and myself) very well and another big part is that the wife can drive it too with confidence as it's not too big.
I would not say that the Jeep will ever become a collectors item but then again it might. I shouldn't talk because i have a 1989 Honda CRX in very good condition sitting in my garage as well.
If the Jeep serves me well for the next 5-7 years then i think it paid for itself.

[Tom&Phet]

That seems pretty low.
I thought i was good but that is low.
By the time i add rego, green slip and insurance I'm already over that amount.
I do around 15'km a year without going on holidays so that's easy 3 services. Two of them i do myself, the major one my mechanic does but that includes all diffs, transmission and transfer case.
So my running costs a about double.