WK2 3.0L Making Oil - Advise needed

[TR Laredo]

As a reference point the pressure reading across my DPF (sourced from Blue Driver) typically ranges from 0.30 kPa to 44.60kPa.

These are the guys I got to off car machine clean my DPF

https://dpfcleaningmelbourne.com.au/

Cheers

[LeCheese]

Originally Posted by harold_beh

At the moment its more around 11-12lt/100km for highway driving.. never though much of it as my wife may spend an hr or so in school lines each day idling.. but it probably is excessive..

I will have a good look at the DPF burn times and pressures etc, id say its likely the culprit.. i think the soot level is already around 80% after doing a forced burn a year or so back... might need a chemical clean

11-12L/100 is maybe a touch high but not too bad for that sort of stop start driving tbh - I sit around that or maybe a tad less if I've been doing only city driving for a tank with no highway runs. I do have bigger/heavier tyres, extra weight from bash plates and stuff in the boot, and a roof rack though.

Missed your first comment saying that you couldn't do a manual burn - that's interesting. If you ask it to do it, my understanding is it should do it regardless of %. What scan tool are you using? Possibly compatibility issues? If not, that could be a bit of a breadcrumb towards the issue

[drover]

I think its the DPF trying to do a burn but getting cut off and if its sitting around idling a lot the DPF is more getting clogged every other day, go for a good long weekend drive somewhere, so you can cruise along at 100kph, everything gets a good run, it should do a burn or 2 even and most importantly the fuel in the sump will dissipate...

Last read out of mine and it had been mostly tootling around town so the burn happened after 170km's lasted 10.8 mins and the oven was at 617.75 degC, so I imagine it cooked it off when I ran to the nearby beach.... also showed never had a forced burn and in 100K km has fired up the oven 386 times so averaging a burn every 286km........

General highway running mine will be best 8.4 average 9.2 and around town 9.6, notice when it does a burn around town as it will jump to around the 10.5 or so... my set up is a tad heavy as well...

[harold_beh]

So i think i have figured out what is happening, I think you guys are spot on with the DPF causing issues.

I hooked up scan tool and noticed a section that had the total number of regens the car has activated, It was quite high... sitting at 1996!

So i figured that's excessive, I also noticed another section that had Kms since last successful regeneration, It was at 0!

I took car for a drive whilst looking at live data, specifically the section that has "Regeneration active" which basically says True/False.
I wouldn't of even got 5 mins into drive before it changed to "True" and was trying to regen again, I was no where near highway so took back home.

I managed to force a regeneration, the soot level was around 70% which is why car tried to force regeneration.
Once i manually completed DPF burn it went down to 10%, great i thought... took for another drive.. this time i managed to get a good 20 mins of driving but noticed that the soot level was rising pretty quick!

After 20 mins it got to around 70% again and then again forced a regeneration.

I took home again and did another forced DPF burn.

So knowing all of this i know that the fuel dilution would be because of the constant regenerations car is doing! But i am not sure if i am going to be successful doing a few more manual burns cleaning out or if i am going to be forced to remove and send for chemical cleaning.

Question - Has anyone here removed DPF and sent for cleaning? If so is it a difficult Job and what kind of $$ on average does it cost?
I am sure it would be cheaper than a new DPF!

Side note, I did the dreaded coolant hose under manifold some time ago, I am wondering if when i cleaned manifold out (It was terrible!) i have caused problem by loosening gunk up and sending down the DPF filters way?

Anyways, if someone has experience with this it would be great to hear it!

Thanks!!

[TR Laredo]

Originally Posted by harold_beh

So i think i have figured out what is happening, I think you guys are spot on with the DPF causing issues.

Question - Has anyone here removed DPF and sent for cleaning? If so is it a difficult Job and what kind of $$ on average does it cost?
I am sure it would be cheaper than a new DPF!

Side note, I did the dreaded coolant hose under manifold some time ago, I am wondering if when i cleaned manifold out (It was terrible!) i have caused problem by loosening gunk up and sending down the DPF filters way?

Anyways, if someone has experience with this it would be great to hear it!

Thanks!!

I pulled the DPF out of mine & it was fairly straight forward to remove. There is 1 x V clamp to undo where the engine pipe connects to the DPF inlet & a slip joint clamp at the rear of the DPF along with a rear mounting point. You'll need to remove the 2 x pressure sensor tubes leading to the DPF pressure differential sensor ( gives you the % reading of the DPF soot loading)(68155263AA)https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/part...8155263aa.html,
The individual pressure sensor part # is: BOSCH part # 0281006 341, MOPAR 56 04 45 87 AC
- check the tubes for soot blockage, holes etc that could cause pressure loss

You also need to remove the DPF temp sensor - Walker Part# 272-10332
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=17051&jsn=27

The temp sensor can be tested using the procedure found here on pages 4 & 5:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...51745-9999.pdf

From memory it cost me about $600 for the off car DPF clean & the guys that did the work asked about the condition of the DPF's pressure differential sensor (faulty sensor = regen problems), the DPF temp sensor (faulty sensor = regen problems) & the engine thermostat (faulty thermostat = engine running cold/not reaching correct operating temp = regen problems)

If the inlet manifold was cleaned with something like this:
https://www.liquimoly.com.au/3029-di...iABEgKlefD_BwE

on the car with the engine running - then the dislodged carbon has more than likely collected in the DPF & sat there till the next regen tried to deal with it.

Cheers

[drover]

I reckon TR Laredo has it in a nutshell, other than a good highway run/burn which might clear it up, a bench clean and sensor check over is certainly on the cards.

I have always thought a highway burn above 80 kph should be far better than a static burn, a shed burn doesn't have the oil temps like a road run...

Mine looks like a text book DPF burn regime so could be a bench mark, youve a hell of a lot of burns......

[LeCheese]

As others have said, while a bench clean might sort the DPF for a bit, it's likely that isn't the root of the issue. With that sort of burn behaviour, it definitely sounds like a faulty sensor.