Zf8 speed blew coolant line

[OLMATE]

Hey drover have you got a detailed picture in your workshop manual of the Thermostatic Bypass unit showing the fittings, etc. My understanding is the fittings are Quick Connect 😀 cheers

[drover]

Manual doesn't even know it exists, hate these electronic jobs...

I haven't even managed to get a look at mine up close, bash plates in way but have always thought it was a screw in fitting, the part number for the 14/15 JGC is 68210018AA and it looks like this



Got to get under it for a service hopefully this week and if I end up doing a coolant change Ill have the front plate off so should be able to see it better, I think.......


UPDATE: further digging in manual does show the Quick Disconnect fittings for the tranny lines at cooler so one could assume the same sort of push/lock fittings are fitted to the thermatic valve as well... a bit like a John Guest fitting... also show how easy for the lines to blow on the OPs box if not fitted correctly..

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[FARWEST]

Geez.....there are some Engineering things in place of extremely questionable value....to me...it just seems like an Engineered 'weak point'....my two cents worth...which is probably 1c more than they paid for each and every one of those cheap arse bound to fail fittings...as Drover said....explains the OP issue after work was done on his car

[drover]

Originally Posted by FARWEST

Geez.....there are some Engineering things in place of extremely questionable value....to me...it just seems like an Engineered 'weak point'....my two cents worth...which is probably 1c more than they paid for each and every one of those cheap arse bound to fail fittings...as Drover said....explains the OP issue after work was done on his car

BUt being out of the WSM doesn't mean it will even look like that, clicky fuel and oil line fittings always fill me with dread, I hate the damn things... bit like drain taps on radiators, give then a wide berth for sure.........

[OLMATE]

Originally Posted by drover

bit like drain taps on radiators, give then a wide berth for sure.........

Tell me about it, I want to change my Coolant, got 5 litres of the correct Red Nulon + 5 litres of demineralized water, I'm very apprehensive about disturbing the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator thru fear of either. breaking the bastard or if it has a sealing o-ring or washer and not having another one in my kit, What's your procedure for replacing the Coolant, as with my other cars I'd love to be able to remove the bottom hose, whip the thermostat out. stick a hose up the bum of the bottom hose until it starts coming out the top, leave the thermostat out fill it up, have heater on hot, do this a few times. to rid the system of all old coolant, then refill with new coolant, bleed, then kick back knowing all's well for another few years, but with the jeep how do you get more than 4 litres out? maybe have it so the bum is uphill on an incline so the front is a lot lower, to allow gravity to do its thing, then when refilling reverse the situation so the front is up in the air to allow all the air to climb to the top, thanks for the diagram too

[Jeeper6]

Originally Posted by OLMATE

Tell me about it, I want to change my Coolant, got 5 litres of the correct Red Nulon + 5 litres of demineralized water, I'm very apprehensive about disturbing the drain cock on the bottom of the radiator thru fear of either. breaking the bastard or if it has a sealing o-ring or washer and not having another one in my kit, What's your procedure for replacing the Coolant, as with my other cars I'd love to be able to remove the bottom hose, whip the thermostat out. stick a hose up the bum of the bottom hose until it starts coming out the top, leave the thermostat out fill it up, have heater on hot, do this a few times. to rid the system of all old coolant, then refill with new coolant, bleed, then kick back knowing all's well for another few years, but with the jeep how do you get more than 4 litres out? maybe have it so the bum is uphill on an incline so the front is a lot lower, to allow gravity to do its thing, then when refilling reverse the situation so the front is up in the air to allow all the air to climb to the top, thanks for the diagram too

Doubt the drain at the bottom of the radiator would do much more than removing the bottom hose.
I should have a had a better look at the set up...I took top and bottom hoses off my old Jeep as spares, but didn't pay much attention to the set up. I did note that the bottom hose has the expansion tank connected to it mid way via a T piece, and there is also another small hose from near the thermostat housing to the expansion tank.

I am yet to remove the oil cooler, so I'll have a better gander at it then...I have had the radiators flushed via workshops thus far as I have no facility here at the Townhouse to do much at all...

[drover]

My plan is to;
1. drop bottom hose to drain radiator, though even that is scary especially in plastic/alloy jobs.

2. lift the thermostat and hose out the engine galleries using the old hose in a bung trick ....

3. clean out header tank.

4. put hose back on, fill engine then replace thermostat, radiator and header tank and hopefully get most of the coolant in then run it all up... should be little air to bleed off......

Well thats the plan, something will surely stuff it up.

Ideally just fill it with tank water or flush, go for a run with heater on then drain again when cooled down but I really can't be stuffed buggering around that much and don't want to lift the thermostat again, stupid electronic BS heater taps .......... bet a workshop doesn't drain the heater....

Lifting the thermostat will also show me any dramas, the gallery should be smicko if any scale then I will be trouble down the line.. I don't even want to think about it...