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  #8  
Old 14-09-2004
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Sgt Camo,

Bones & I just finished our 8 week welding course.

Bring it down with an old railway track and let us attack the housing with a stick, a mig and a slab
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  #9  
Old 15-09-2004
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Hi guys,

Not using CTM's however am running a larger uni (cant remember the part number) visually it looks about twice the size of the standard ones that have come out.

I was running warn outers (part of the freewheeling hub kit) it was the short side inner axle that broke and it appears to have twisted right at the end on the spline that went into the locker. I think that this would have been caused by the backlash from the uni being f**ked allowing free play under load.

In relation to strengthing the diff, personally i dont feel that it it that it is that weak, Max B (the mad dentist) has done two OBC an ateco and several winch challenges, these are not kind on your car and he has no issues. I am open to being proven wrong however that is my personal opinion.

Will be giving it a good hard go at Willowglen so i will report back on how it went.

Coops
  #10  
Old 15-09-2004
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Bent housing are more associated with airborne antics than hard driving

If all of the supension geomtry is correct and the internals are well maintain and apporiate for the use then there should be no reaon to bend a housing unless you have a hard uneven landing from being airborne
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  #11  
Old 15-09-2004
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Mines never been airborne but ive bent the front diff before. It was the long tube on the drivers side.
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  #12  
Old 15-09-2004
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think about where the forces would have to be appiled to bend the axle tubes and about how that could occur
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  #13  
Old 15-09-2004
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Bent my long tube, drivers side aswell, its still is bent. Thats what i thought AussieCJ7, all the pressure should be between the wheel and the spring pad, but it happens.
  #14  
Old 16-09-2004
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...I like the idea of the super 30 kit (superior just released it a month or two back I guess)... only potential (and I say POTENTIAL) disadvantages are the small ring and pinion in the D30 (as long as you don't go lower than 4.56 this should be ok - I've got some nice pics somewhere of an exploded set of front 4.88's from a TJ D30), low pinion, and thin tubes...



For you Coops it is a no brainer - you had all the stuff you needed already (hub kit etc)... if you were building a D30 from scratch though a D44 swap would probably come out at a similar cost all up.

They are also doing a super 44 kit that will run 35 spline axels in the rear D44...

Keep us informed on how it goes.

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