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  #14155  
Old 27-12-2014
Richard buttocks's Avatar
Richard buttocks  Richard buttocks is offline
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Undo the drivers side engine mount
That way the engine drops away from the fire wall lip
  #14156  
Old 27-12-2014
anthonygubbin  anthonygubbin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard buttocks View Post
Undo the drivers side engine mount
That way the engine drops away from the fire wall lip
Thanks RB, perfect. Problem solved.

Regards A
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  #14157  
Old 27-12-2014
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Originally Posted by anthonygubbin View Post
I didn't see in the manual that you remove the rockers and rods first. In hindsight it would have been best to do that and I did think that as well. Even if my reason which was to get them checked by the recoers while they were still in place and I didn't want them mixed up. As for the rod I'll just get another. I have replaced rings and bearings before and its no that hard. I just don't want to do the honing as it needs to be spot on as you know to ensure the rings bed in. Yes I did the petrol test and it run through.

This still does not answer how I will be able to reinstall the passenger side most rear head bolt. Instead of bagging me out for bending a $20 part LB how about helping me come up with a solution to how I can get a torque wrench and breaker bar on over the head bolt once it's in place? I'm fairly sure that when you were an apprentice LB you would have made some mistakes in your first year. I know I did in my apprenticeship and mistake is not a major drama if you know how to fix it. I may not end up doing rings and bearings haven't totally made up my mind. I am going to get a mate from down the road to check the cylinders and give me his opinion first. As for the head leak test I take what you said on board but an internet diagnosis will be no f'n good to me if it has low compression once its all back together. Shit I used a internet diagnosis on my trans and it ended up being a full rebuild when that wasn't needed. I am taking the head to he recoers regardless because they will tell me exactly what needs to be done to it. BTW I wouldn't trust that bit in the manual about painting the head bolts. As a mech yourself LB would you do that? NFW would I every mech I have spoken to says always replace the head bolts or void your warranty.

Regards A
Mate... just read what YOU wrote, and my conclusion is you playing with an engine is like trying to eat a National Pie while still in its plastic wrapper. Its going to be Very Messy. That engine will never be the same......
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  #14158  
Old 27-12-2014
anthonygubbin  anthonygubbin is offline
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Question re the 4.0 how many km could I expect out of engine short motor if its been looked after with regular servicing? I am thinking I need it on the road ASAP since I doubt I will have the Lancer too much longer. Hence I may not even remove the sump. It wasn't burning oil just what is to be expected between oil changes which is maybe 300mls.

Regards A
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  #14159  
Old 27-12-2014
anthonygubbin  anthonygubbin is offline
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BTW I don't think I cooked the engine as such as when I first popped the bonnet that day there was very little heat under the bonnet. I think the saving grace was the gas as the converter had frozen by the time it stopped.

Regards A
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  #14160  
Old 27-12-2014
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Man I'm looking forward to hitting the tracks again!!!! This is where I'm at ATM should be driving it around tomorrow if the kids allow me to work on it lol Click image for larger version

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  #14161  
Old 27-12-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard buttocks View Post
Undo the drivers side engine mount
That way the engine drops away from the fire wall lip
Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonygubbin View Post
Thanks RB, perfect. Problem solved.

Regards A
No need, realy.

I've never had any trouble with that rear most head bolt. I have heard of a lot of tricks though, I just replace the head with head bolt IN the head. Obviously you must be careful not to damage the head gasket when lowering the head. It has been a while since I did mine, but I think the deep socket and torque wrench fits.

cheers
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