What did you do to your XJ today? 1M Views

[Clint87]

Originally Posted by junglejuice

It'll run, just be aware that the torque curve is quite different and when I went the opposite way what I read in my research suggested that the OBD1 computer is more tolerant of mods then the OBD2 computer is, of course you can't believe everything you read on the net as numerous sites I have looked at state that the 0630 head doesn't have the hole drilled for the rear temp sender, all the ones I have worked on have had this provision....

Time will tell it idles and revs sweet as but I'll have to see how it performs once it's back on the road. Cheers

[anthonygubbin]

[quote=layback40;1509739][quote=anthonygubbin;1509735]

Originally Posted by layback40

Good to hear you got that sorted. Best just concentrate on what needs doing, dont go off on tangents or you will just make life difficult for yourself.

You will not detect the extra blow by unless you have done damage to the pistons, rings & bore. Do you have much movement in the pistons ~ 1/2 way up the bore, try & move them up & back & sideways with your fingers. A small amount of movement is fine, sloppy, lots of movement & can see the top ring is a concern.
If you want to drive it like a rally car then get a reco engine.

At the end of the day, you dont have a new engine, rings & bearing shells may give you an extra 100,000km max more than what ever you will get from what you have if you are lucky.
How much longer do you think the unibody will last given the type of driving you do?

My plan is to get someone like a mech who I am happy to pay who knows about engines to check the condition of the bores and wiggle the pistons like you suggested LB. I have already done this myself and could feel movement but not much. #1 has more movement than any other. But I have an idea that's actually normal anyway on an old engine with a few k's on it. I'm not a complete idiot when it comes to this stuff and when I am unsure I get help. Like I said a few times before the internet diagnosis is ok. But sitting behind a screen LB is not like having you in my shed and actually able to make an accurate diagnosis. Like I also said the other day I had my trans rebuilt when it wasn't needed because instead of me getting it properly diagnosed I relied on AJOR. Where as I should have spent 50 or 100 bucks and had someone do some tests in the workshop, someone who has a pretty good idea because they have seen it many a time before. Not having a go either BTW. Just some things are not best diagnosed over the net. Normal shit like the 301 common XJ probs is easy enough to figure out on AJOR. But I have run my engine out of water and engine probs on the 4.0 is probably the least talked about subject going. Because as you know they normally never go bung.

Regards A

[anthonygubbin]

Originally Posted by COFFMAN

But hey mate it's your jeep and money do as you like and I will do the same.

Exactly and I have said this same thing to others before. Hey so far I have managed to f'k one $20 push rod. That's a lot less than the $1800 I would have cost me to get it done elsewhere. Like I said before I have to give it a go. The XJ is f'd anyway so if I mess it up big deal. And a least with each f'up I learn to do it differently next time and eventually I might actually become ok at it. Six years ago there wasn't much I could fix myself on the Heep now there isn't much I can't fix. Sure a few things over the years I have repaired more than once because I f'd up. But I am happy and TBH quite pleased with what I can actually do now without consulting the manual or Ausjeep.

Doing it myself it shouldn't be much more than $600 (head alone). Now it still needs 5 times that to get it to where it needs to be as the head gasket is just one of seven other problems it has that needs to be fixed.

The other thing is too the only reason I bent the push rod in the first place besides me not removing the rockers and rods first was that I rushed in last night instead of waiting for a mate to help me lift it off today as planned. Even then it probably would have been fine if the first time round I actually climbed into the engine bay instead of trying to lift it with my arms leaning over the guard then realising I couldn't support the weight from where I was. Hey but that's how we learn to not make the same mistakes twice. If I tried doing everything the same way again expecting a different result then fair enough bag me out. I've done this stuff before but each engine is different and because I don't get paid to work on cars I have to learn the hard way even it does cost me money.

Regards A

[XJeepers]

Originally Posted by bruggz351

No need, realy.

I've never had any trouble with that rear most head bolt. I have heard of a lot of tricks though, I just replace the head with head bolt IN the head. Obviously you must be careful not to damage the head gasket when lowering the head. It has been a while since I did mine, but I think the deep socket and torque wrench fits.

cheers

Hey bruggz, little trick for getting it in with the bolt in place. Get about 1/2" length of hose, slit it down the side an wrap it around the bolt on the top side of the head to make a spacer and lift it up till it's clear of the under side. Then when when the head is in place, pull the hose off and the bolt will drop into place ready to be torqued down.

[XJeepers]

Originally Posted by COFFMAN

Come on mate you give me a LIKE on that post....As I said, and this is based on your performance to remove the head it can only end in tears. This is of cause my observation. You have contradicted yourself on many occasions and do a lot of talking in riddles. When advice is given, as you have a few supporters it seems to fall on deaf ears.... Like diagnose the fault first BEFORE pulling anything apart.....You may have found little to nothing wrong with it.

But hey mate it's your jeep and money do as you like and I will do the same.

Hey coffman,
Under 'Your Account' then 'MY Ignore List'. Works really well. You still see quoted posts, but it reduces the considerably.

Hopefully this thread will get back on topic soon.....

[Roler]

Gave the IAC and TB a clean yesterday. Planned to do it anyway, but did so in my quest to try and find the cause for my somewhat slight ...well, I guess, sort of 'resonance' occurring at idle. No real change in rpm's on the gauge. Almost like a irregular occurring vibration/little stumble, but only so little and can be felt through the steering wheel (last tune up only 20 K ago, checked and cleaned distributor cap and rotor and replaced harmonic balancer that had a wobble going).
"resonance" still there (but engine runs smooth like anything while driving)....

Some cleaning pics (sorry 'bout the out of focus, dodgy phone camera)

Before:



After:

[COFFMAN]

Originally Posted by XJeepers

Hey coffman,
Under 'Your Account' then 'MY Ignore List'. Works really well. You still see quoted posts, but it reduces the considerably.

Hopefully this thread will get back on topic soon.....

All good mate... entertainment is entertaining