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  #15226  
Old 10-03-2015
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junglejuice  junglejuice is offline
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Originally Posted by Roler View Post
Got the radiator back from the shop. Besides an initial diagnosed tube leaking, turned out it was 70% blocked. Once it was unblocked there were a few more leaks. All fixed, I expect. Pretty good rad than, if with only 30% and tubes leaking, it still only overheated 2x and that was under the heaviest conditions possible.
And this was an Adrad?
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  #15227  
Old 10-03-2015
Roler  Roler is offline
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And this was an Adrad?
Nope, I don't know what they put in there 5 years ago , but the guy who did the rad today thought it actually was an OEM they had put in (and there were plenty of Adrads in boxes in his shop by the looks of it, so I think he would recognise one). I don't know what or where to look to check if its OEM (I still have it out, is going back in tomorrow morning first thing so can still check before it goes back in).

Adrad crossed my mind, since its been leaking under 4 years of use and that's what I recalled from those Adrad Units being one of the downsides...lol
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  #15228  
Old 10-03-2015
wikchi  wikchi is offline
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had new springs and shocks installed to the rear.

Still needs a bit of a lift and the $700aud+ leaf springs look a bit rich for me.
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  #15229  
Old 11-03-2015
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fiddling with the AC and on my 2000 the Thermo fan only comes on at 105 or if the pressure side of the AC goes over 300? psi,
Any one remember how to fool the fan solenoid in to coming on at 100
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  #15230  
Old 11-03-2015
Roler  Roler is offline
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Originally Posted by kyphonii View Post
fiddling with the AC and on my 2000 the Thermo fan only comes on at 105 or if the pressure side of the AC goes over 300? psi,
Any one remember how to fool the fan solenoid in to coming on at 100
I think 105C was the temp it should kick in, IIRC.
It's done through the ECU, not sure if you can "fool" the ECU, but override switch is what I can think of as means to control when you want it to come on.
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  #15231  
Old 11-03-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roler View Post
Nope, I don't know what they put in there 5 years ago , but the guy who did the rad today thought it actually was an OEM they had put in (and there were plenty of Adrads in boxes in his shop by the looks of it, so I think he would recognise one). I don't know what or where to look to check if its OEM (I still have it out, is going back in tomorrow morning first thing so can still check before it goes back in).

Adrad crossed my mind, since its been leaking under 4 years of use and that's what I recalled from those Adrad Units being one of the downsides...lol
If it is OEM you can tell by the plastic tanks...

The OEM tanks look like this...



Minus the split of course, the "drain" point on the drivers side is not drilled, I can't remember the brand that's molded into the plastic and I've disposed of the old one, if you mention the name I may recall it, if it has brass tanks then it's aftermarket...
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  #15232  
Old 11-03-2015
anthonygubbin  anthonygubbin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
VM is no different, just some of us dont wish to risk having elec problems.
Rather be driving than fixing.
LOL I reckon I had every other possible problem yet only two electrical problems I had was a burnt out SM from being oily inside and the alt which went weeks after I bought it, long before I started cleaning the engine bay. One issue I did have from cleaning the engine was the TB becoming jambed open. That was not fun when the Jeep wants to get up to 120kph and increasing with the only way of stopping to turn the ignition off.

Regards A
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