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  #17249  
Old 05-04-2016
junglejuice's Avatar
junglejuice  junglejuice is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awg View Post
read some more forum, and crawled round under my Jeep.

Gave it an oil and TX case fluid change, both were full and in ok condition

This one hasnt been off-road much, if at all...no dents or scrapes underneath.

A question about the rear springs;

Should the main eye leaf be flat, or even slight upward curve in the last 6 inches toward the eye, instead of the expected downward arch?...or is this the symptom of badly sagged springs?

My rears are ~770mm ground-to-arch with 225/75/15 and ~805mm at front.

next an auto tranny fluid change, then to attend the cooling system.

will be pulling a small loaded trailer to Sydney on the weekend, so I guess I will find out more about the cooling system performance.

I had a feel around on the engine block for the "block drain"...am I correct in presuming there is an Allen key head in there, hard behind the exhaust downpipe, that I could feel, but not see?

It seemed to me impractically difficult to even get a key in there to attempt to drain the block in situ...or am I just being a wuss?
The springs should have curve in them, if the main leaf is curved upwards then it's stuffed.
Stock is 17.5" F and 17" R from underside of the flares to the centre of the axles, Sports were lifted 1" from the factory.....
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2014 WK2 Overland
  #17250  
Old 05-04-2016
Roler  Roler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junglejuice View Post
Of what it looks like now?
Well, nice and round...and carved up most likely on the other side that I can't see....
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189.000 km

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  #17251  
Old 05-04-2016
junglejuice's Avatar
junglejuice  junglejuice is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roler View Post
Well, nice and round...and carved up most likely on the other side that I can't see....
Given access drilling it out and retapping the hole would be a good solution....
A dab of copper coat on the thread would make all the difference....
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2014 WK2 Overland
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  #17252  
Old 05-04-2016
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rustynuts  rustynuts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roler View Post
Well, nice and round...and carved up most likely on the other side that I can't see....
I have removed many stubborn O2 sensors. When the shit hits the fan I do this.
HEAT up the joint. Grab the sensor with stilsons. Like what Plumbers use. They will grab rounded bolts. Hit end of stilsons with big hammer.
It will work!
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"98 XJ. RE 3.5 inch lift. Dana 44. 4.11's. 32's
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  #17253  
Old 06-04-2016
rainman's Avatar
rainman  rainman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awg View Post
read some more forum, and crawled round under my Jeep.

Gave it an oil and TX case fluid change, both were full and in ok condition

This one hasnt been off-road much, if at all...no dents or scrapes underneath.

A question about the rear springs;

Should the main eye leaf be flat, or even slight upward curve in the last 6 inches toward the eye, instead of the expected downward arch?...or is this the symptom of badly sagged springs?

My rears are ~770mm ground-to-arch with 225/75/15 and ~805mm at front.

next an auto tranny fluid change, then to attend the cooling system.

will be pulling a small loaded trailer to Sydney on the weekend, so I guess I will find out more about the cooling system performance.

I had a feel around on the engine block for the "block drain"...am I correct in presuming there is an Allen key head in there, hard behind the exhaust downpipe, that I could feel, but not see?

It seemed to me impractically difficult to even get a key in there to attempt to drain the block in situ...or am I just being a wuss?
Iirc The block drain is 5/16" square. It's a prick few people use it.it's prolly not been moved since the engine was assembled.
Oem type radiators have a drain cock on the drivers side. Otherwise you can pull the bottom rad hose.
Remember to flush the heater as well if yr changing coolents.
Good luck with it.
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Last edited by rainman; 06-04-2016 at 02:45 AM.
  #17254  
Old 06-04-2016
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bruggz351  bruggz351 is offline
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Recent purchase arrived this morning.


What I find amusing, is that on the rhs, in the column, "country of origin", all but the Stant rad cap, assembled in Mexico, is from China. ????
Looking at the products, only the Pronto filters are made in China. Hmf.

Sent from my HTC_0PJA10 using Tapatalk
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  #17255  
Old 06-04-2016
Roler  Roler is offline
Jingle ALL the way...
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Posts: 1,854
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Yeah, even the stuff from China is now made cheaper somewhere else Where has the time gone that a man could trust that if it said it was coming from China, it was indeed made in China...
__________________
97 XJ 4.0 Sport (Nov)
Chrysler 8.25"
189.000 km

Stop calling your car a "she". It's a car.
Likes: (1)
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