What did you do to your XJ today? 1M Views

[Roler]

I just had a look awg, and the other (bigger) heater hose is a 3/4'. So get the 5/8 and the 3/4' heater hoses and you should have no problem. I replaced one of the spring clamps with a decent hose clamp. Oldon, here some.pics of the bend guards things.

[oldon]

Originally Posted by Roler

I just had a look awg, and the other (bigger) heater hose is a 3/4'. So get the 5/8 and the 3/4' heater hoses and you should have no problem. I replaced one of the spring clamps with a decent hose clamp. Oldon, here some.pics of the bend guards things.

Thanks Roler, those are a brilliant idea. Was thinking of silicone hoses when I change the heater hoses, they would solve my concerns of hose kinking. Can probably buy them preformed for xj ,but with those springs you wouldn't need to. Thanks for the Bursons tip awg. Always handy tips on here.

[rustynuts]

It was asked what were the differences between an ARB non winch and winch bullbar. Well I took some picks today and the news is :not much". The only difference I can see is the protuding bit out front to take rollers and the cut out in the centre of the bar for the cable to run through. Behind the bar is the same. If you are going to run "dieema rope" then the roller stick out bit is not needed.
Here are some pics for JJ. Sorry they are poor quality. Could only use my POS phone.

[junglejuice]

Originally Posted by rustynuts

It was asked what were the differences between an ARB non winch and winch bullbar. Well I took some picks today and the news is :not much". The only difference I can see is the protuding bit out front to take rollers and the cut out in the centre of the bar for the cable to run through. Behind the bar is the same. If you are going to run "dieema rope" then the roller stick out bit is not needed.
Here are some pics for JJ. Sorry they are poor quality. Could only use my POS phone.

Thanks Rusty.....

[rustynuts]

Well what a crap day today working on my "green one". As some of you are aware, I have had a torque convertor lockup problem for a while now. I have listened to every body"s advice and have done the following.
I first off replaced the torque convertor solenoid. No good.
I scanned for fault codes and got an intermittent TPS reading. Replaced the TPS. Checked the wiring loom. Still scratching my head.
Tested solenoid pin outs at fire wall. All OK there but still no lockup.
I then tapped a wire from the lockup wire after the plug on the firewall and ran that into the cabin. Connected my multi meter to that wire and earth and went for a drive. To my surprise my meter showed 13.5 volts when the convertor should lock up.
Well today I went into the trans pan again. Removed the solenoid and tested it. It was fine. I attached a hose to the end and blew pressure into it. Blocked like it should be. I then did the same while giving it battery power and all was clear. I tested the resistance of the solenoid and got a reading of 12 ohms. Right on the money. I the tested the wire that I had tapped into back to the solenoid and had no resistance so that was all good. Reinstalled the solenoid and got a reading of 12 ohms again from my test wire. Put it all back together and still no lockup. Faaark.
It looks like I will now have to change my transmission and torque convertor.

[awg]

Jeep noob tool questions;

have male Torx bits up to T50...I see a T60 is needed to do the oil filter housing

I can order them online separately...apart from T60, do I need any other LARGER than T50 ?

In the instance of male Torx fasteners on the vehicle, I am somewhat unfamiliar and confused..I know metric 12 point spanners seem to fit, but are there "correct" tools (female Torx) that should/need be purchased?

for bonus points, the temp sender at LH head rear, what is the thread?
would it be 1/8" NPT (a common standard size, even on metric cars??)

[Richard buttocks]

Originally Posted by rustynuts

Well what a crap day today working on my "green one". As some of you are aware, I have had a torque convertor lockup problem for a while now. I have listened to every body"s advice and have done the following.
I first off replaced the torque convertor solenoid. No good.
I scanned for fault codes and got an intermittent TPS reading. Replaced the TPS. Checked the wiring loom. Still scratching my head.
Tested solenoid pin outs at fire wall. All OK there but still no lockup.
I then tapped a wire from the lockup wire after the plug on the firewall and ran that into the cabin. Connected my multi meter to that wire and earth and went for a drive. To my surprise my meter showed 13.5 volts when the convertor should lock up.
Well today I went into the trans pan again. Removed the solenoid and tested it. It was fine. I attached a hose to the end and blew pressure into it. Blocked like it should be. I then did the same while giving it battery power and all was clear. I tested the resistance of the solenoid and got a reading of 12 ohms. Right on the money. I the tested the wire that I had tapped into back to the solenoid and had no resistance so that was all good. Reinstalled the solenoid and got a reading of 12 ohms again from my test wire. Put it all back together and still no lockup. Faaark.
It looks like I will now have to change my transmission and torque convertor.

should have listened to me, its ya convertor.