What did you do to your XJ today? 1M Views

[Mudmonster]

Originally Posted by mud_slut

[emoji23] once the engine mount was out it wasn't too bad. That last nut was on real tight, had the breaker bar and extension on to crack it!! Would hate to think what I would do if I rounded it?!

Engine mount?
If you did happen to round the bolt. Easy fix pull the gearbox and backing plate out

[Richard buttocks]

Originally Posted by mudmonster

engine mount?
If you did happen to round the bolt. Easy fix pull the gearbox and backing plate out

hahahaha easy fix

[layback40]

Originally Posted by Mudmonster

should only be a 30min job

back when I was having starter problems it got to the stage that I could just about lift the bonnet & whistle & it would get itself out.

[mud_slut]

That would be a story. I own a jeep and to get the starter out you have to pull the gearbox


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[junglejuice]

For the last few days (on and off) I have been reconfiguring my aux battery set up in the rear, as it now has a dc-dc charger I wanted to be able to remove the fridges off the battery whilst on the charger plus I have added a solar input as well as a 24vdc input for when we have mains available (12-24v fridges only).
As this needed to be configured so it does it all automatically some relays and fusing was required so I repurposed an OBD2 PDC, reconfigured it for dual input to allow for the above requirements , I also made a negative busbar for all the gnds to connect to solidly and fitted anderson plugs for the fridges, compressor, solar etc as this is also removable it needed to be plugged in.
I also added twin voltmeters in the dash to be able to monitor the charge level of the aux battery as well as a meter for the cars voltage as the dash one is useless, the charger can be bypassed if I want with the rocker switch between the meters allowing for the dual battery controller to be turned off, switched to charging by the dc-dc or bypass the dc-dc if I want (the charger is 20a limited).
Only issue to sort out is when switched to bypass the dual battery controller won't turn on, I suspect it's due to the voltage drop across the diode in the switching configuration but as yet to verify....

Still with some tidying to do....


A heavily modded OBD2 PDC...


Not much room behind this for the wiring and the busbar is tucked in there as well....


Ign off..




Ign on...


Just need to lable the lid now to reflect the new fuse ratings and designations for the fuses and relays for easy remote location fault finding....

[junglejuice]

Originally Posted by mud_slut

That would be a story. I own a jeep and to get the starter out you have to pull the gearbox


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What?

A bit like needing to remove the gearbox in my Commodore to replace the thermostat???

[awg]

went to my mechanic mate and pulled the complete tailgate glass & rubber, and latch, also an inhibitor switch, total $0, so cant complain too much, will fit the glass
to my truck tmz morning, it was raining a bit.

another mate tipped me to always try get the glass warm in the sun, much less chance to break

re female Torx bits...is size over E18 ever needed ?

re fuel Octane..FSM states 91, but that would be USA 91 presumably, which I think ~95Oz...so does that mean 95 is recommended, and 91 is not?

I have run mine on grades from E10-91 to 95