TJ diff transplant

[maddog]

The MTRs are the tyre that I would have been doing Willowglen on, if I was to do it, the swampers wouldn't have fitted inside the guards without moving the diff a little further forward, and the swampers will drive terribly on the road. Want to start with the MTRs and work my way up, in terms of testing.

[andy_n]

MD, aren't your TSL's SX? Have you driven a set on the road?

Also, have you thought of contact Pete K to discuss your problems with corkscrewing etc. I know he would love to go into the details of why it is happening and what you could do to try and stop it.

[mogman]

Originally Posted by maddog

Sometimes it does lay over a bit rather than flexing (assuming spring rate or rear sway bar issue)




Ahh and one other thing, I realised that I really need some reduction gearing now. Atlas II with 5:1 reduction would be nice Anyone got one they want to donate to me?

My guess is your rear suspension links are not set up to handle this much travel, if you limit the rear end by atleast 200mm it will drive alot better, it won't be able to torque over before driving forward.

[planb]

the anti rock sway bar in the rear will drastically improve your suspension woes.

its unloading too easy in the rear.

i would fit a sway bar before messing with the coil rates.

you should also consider fitting a limiting strap in the centre

otherwise, rig is looking cool.

its way too high though, you sure you cant cut the trans tunnell and remove the body lift ?

tsls drive ok on the street, worse than the 37 on a 15, but you would be suprised.

they just weigh more and when they do deform/egg/ they suck ass.

but brand new ones, you should be fine.

they sponge under heavy breaking which can feel weird and there is definately a delay when you turn the steering wheel (side wall flex is weird on road)

[maddog]

Originally Posted by andy_n

MD, aren't your TSL's SX? Have you driven a set on the road?

Also, have you thought of contact Pete K to discuss your problems with corkscrewing etc. I know he would love to go into the details of why it is happening and what you could do to try and stop it.

Yep they're TSL/SX. No I haven't driven a set on the road, and I don't really intend on driving them on the road. They will drive like crap and wear really fast. They're only for comps and hardcore wheeling trips

[maddog]

Originally Posted by mogman

My guess is your rear suspension links are not set up to handle this much travel, if you limit the rear end by atleast 200mm it will drive alot better, it won't be able to torque over before driving forward.

Thanks, I was considering a shorter, stiffer spring for the back, and some limiting straps as a starter. Or perhaps the anti-rock. It's hard to know which way to go to start.

[wendle]

Originally Posted by maddog

Here's an example of the corkscrewing, and body leaning interestingly

your problem is a combination of high anti-squat and low roll axis. put simply, it is easier for the rear axle to drive forward and lift the car than it is to push the car forward. and as it lifts it the anti-squat values get higher, making the problem compound. then when it is unloaded, the low roll axis is making it very easy for the driveline torque to twist the car over. easiest fix is to run a tight centre limiting strap. this will help much more than a swaybar will be able to.