TJ diff transplant

[FireTruck]

1 more thing, then I'll shut up... I promise...

With a 14" and a 12" coil on a 14" shock... I think you will need a keeper spring (like the one in my pic).

Otherwise you will get into that situation I described before where you will either have your coils flopping around at full droop (if you crank the red ring all the way to the top), or you will reach the block height of the coil (if you crank the red ring down 2").

I have a spreadsheet that was developed for setting up all this stuff - optimized for 14" shocks... maybe I can e-mail it to you??

S.

[maddog]

I think you may have pointed out a bit of a major flaw in assembly of those coil overs I was told that the silver rings locked the red ring into place at the top of the assembly.

One thing though, the spacer I have that goes betwen the coils isn't exactly like yours. I'm trying to get my dad to take some photos of it now (the Jeep's at his place). It's not quite as tall, but from memory I think it's a similar shape (in terms of having the wider coil perch part, and the thing rim on top where those silver rings would press against.

So if I understand this right. I put those silver rings (locked together) roughly 2" above the thinner part of the spacer, and this will only allow the upper coil to be compressed to a certain level, forcing the primary coil to be used more (and forcing a higher spring rate). That would make a massive difference to the way they work I'd imagine!

If you could email that spreadsheet through to me (benjc@iinet.net.au) I'd greatly appreciate it.

Also, I adjusted up the rear pads while I was with the Jeep tonight, but it hasn't resolved the problem of the pedal going to the floor when the vehicle is on a slope. I"m guessing I'll need to order one of those upgraded master cylinders.

[maddog]

I also had a chance to take some measurements of the control arms tonight. I was able to get the following:

Wheelbase - 99 1/4"
Tyre diameter - 36" (with MTRs on)
Tyre rolling Radius - 17 1/2"

Upper links
Frame end - x=37" y=? z=29 3/4"
Diff end - x=-1" y=? z=24 3/4"

Lower links
Frame end - x=36 3/4" y=? z=26 1/2"
Diff end - x=4" y=? z=16 3/4"

I was unsure what the spreadsheet meant by the Y axis. The description is "This is half your upper link horizontal separation at the frame" which I originally assumed was the distance between the middle of the arm and the chassis, but this didn't make sense when I started measuring.

[maddog]

And here's a pic that shows the silver rings at the top, and the different kind of centre spacer I have.

[FireTruck]

I'll e-mail the spreadsheet tomorrow morning... at home on my GF's pc, and the spready is on mine.

As long as the (white) spacer is quite tight against the body of the shock - which it looks to be - it will all work the same. This will make a big difference mate - no doubt about it.

The silver rings... start them out a couple of inches above the centre spacer - then you can experiment by cranking it up and down (I'm guessing down would be the go...). You don't have to remove the coil overs to adjust them - you can do it with everything all together.

The Y axis is half the distance between the mouting points. That is, the distance between the left hand side mount, and the right hand side mount. It's the separation (one side to the other) of the mounts.

For example, I would say that your upper mounts at the frame end are about 45" apart, so the Y number will be 22.5"

Same goes for all the links - half the distance between the mounting points. For my A frame, the upper mounts on the diff end has a Y of zero - because both upper links join at the centre.

And just to confirm what I had guessed earlier, in that 4 link spreadsheet, the CG (centre of gravity) that you have to put into the calculation is in fact the sprung COG - not the total COG. Best estimate for this is to measure either to your crankshaft, or to the top bolt of the bell housing...

The red spacer should have some little grub screws in it - hex ones, adjusted with an allen key. No need for other locking rings above it - you can crank this all the way to the top (as you should to drop your ride height a bit).

Let us know how you go.

S.

[planb]

so now you got your digits

whats your anti-squat % ???

[maddog]

I have to measure the Y axis now that I know what it means, and measure the estimated CG (as per FT's post) until I get a chance to weigh it all properly and get an accurate CG

The sprung weight will be an esimate as well.