WH 3.0v6 ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) Warning Light / Loss of Power

[fester]

The power issue should not be related to disabling the swirl motor. The same swirl motor and flaps design has been used in every MB diesel since the late 90's. It's the same one in the 2.7 IL5 and also the 4 cyl's before that. I've never read any confirmed reports of the disabled swirl motor affecting performance in any way. The MB boys have been disabling them long before the WH came along so I wouldn't be too concerned.

Can't advise on the clearing code though as the 2.7 is a little different. When my code came up it didn't trigger a limp mode and I don't recall the MIL coming on. Code came up when a friend was clearing codes for another reason. It cleared itself fine. Can't see the value in the fancy plug myself either given it is just the exact same resistor just stuck in a nice little plug. Haven't heard of too many plain resistor mods failing and you can buy a truck load of them for that price. Not like it's stealth either with the wire hanging out of it.

[crdv6]

Originally Posted by TimM

Berko

I see that you have successfully done the resistor mod - well done. There is a variation on the simple resistor MOD and that is to insert the Shibby Engineering plug per the following web page.

http://www.xtremediesel.com/shibbyen...orsimplug.aspx

Shibby call it a Swirl Motor SIM Plug and even though it does pretty much the same as jamming the resistor into the existing plug, it gives a neater and probably more durable fix than the resistor and electric tape. I purchased one last year. I guess that you have to figure whether or not it's worth the $31 asking price, but I thought you would appreciate knowing about it as an alternate.

With respect to fuel consumption, I think that 11.2 L/100 Kms is not too bad. That's about what I get for about a 70/30 Hwy/City driving mix. Hwy only and you should get around the 10 L/100 Kms or a little better if you drive strictly for economy. Like you I have pondered the GDE tune, which comes very well recommended. However, I have not been able to justify the cost to myself. Still on the radar though!

Tim

Hi Tim,
I tried to order the plug from the website mentioned, but there was no option for overseas buyers, only US or Canada..
I asked the question, but no answer yet..

[TimM]

Originally Posted by crdv6

Hi Tim,
I tried to order the plug from the website mentioned, but there was no option for overseas buyers, only US or Canada..
I asked the question, but no answer yet..

I ordered it last year direct from Kurt at Shibby Engineering and they delivered international. This is the email address I used for Kurt: shibbyutman@hotmail.com

See post 260 on this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/c...8/index18.html

Hopefully the email is still active.

Tim

[berko82]

Quick update for those like me that aren't electronic engineers.
So after i put the resistor in, i still had the mil light on and didnt have proper power back. I booked it into the dealer...and the day i dropped it off i took the resistors that i bought to show the electrical engineers at work. I had the wrong ones!
On the thread that i showed the girl at jaycar, it said to use a 4.7k resistor. She said that didnt actually exist and gave me 47k. The brains at work said, 'no, you need a 4k7'!...so back to jaycar, got a 4k7 1w, gave the dealer $130 for telling me theres nothing they can do (and there was some other code about cyl3 glo plug)...got home, new resistor in, and all good again! No more mil light straightaway...and all that power i remebered back!

Have ordered the plug from shibby as it mightnt be as temporary as a a resistor and leccy tape. Just need to order the new intake pipe now.

[Clarky]

Originally Posted by berko82

Quick update for those like me that aren't electronic engineers.
So after i put the resistor in, i still had the mil light on and didnt have proper power back. I booked it into the dealer...and the day i dropped it off i took the resistors that i bought to show the electrical engineers at work. I had the wrong ones!
On the thread that i showed the girl at jaycar, it said to use a 4.7k resistor. She said that didnt actually exist and gave me 47k. The brains at work said, 'no, you need a 4k7'!...so back to jaycar, got a 4k7 1w, gave the dealer $130 for telling me theres nothing they can do (and there was some other code about cyl3 glo plug)...got home, new resistor in, and all good again! No more mil light straightaway...and all that power i remebered back!

Have ordered the plug from shibby as it mightnt be as temporary as a a resistor and leccy tape. Just need to order the new intake pipe now.

Your not the first to be caught out with a 47k resistor, but at least you have it figured out now.

Job well done

[valpacer]

If youre closer to Brissy and need a scan done let me know berko, i have a full scan tool at home.

Glad it all worked out though!

[JamesLaugesen]

Originally Posted by berko82

i showed the girl at jaycar, it said to use a 4.7k resistor. She said that didnt actually exist and gave me 47k. The brains at work said, 'no, you need a 4k7'!...so back to jaycar, got a 4k7 1w.

Just to clarify 4.7kOhm is 4K7.
It's a convention used on elec. components, using a symbol in-place of a decimal point (which can be unreliable to print/read on schematics and boards.).
Most manufacturers use upper-case characters so the "K" still means "kilo" (as opposed to Kelvin.).
So 4K7 = 4700ohm, 4M7 4700000ohm, etc.

Not many engineers actually say "4K7" though, it's just how "4.7k" is written.
Strange for jaycar, most staff tend to be pretty good.