Boiling hot

[Roler]

Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep

Before replacing calipers, jack up the front and press the brake pedal hard. If the wheel is locked up crack open the bleeder. If fluid comes out under a bit of pressure and you can then turn the wheel the brake flexi-hoses are swelling internally. When they do that, fluid under pressure can allow braking, but the seal can't generate the pressure to push fluid back past the restriction which locks the brakes on.

Is that with engine off or running?
As in, would the fluid 'return' be dependant on the brakebooster working or should it also flow back freely without the booster, so with engine off?

[Roler]

Ok cleaned up the sliders, applied some antiseize where they contact the pad ears.
Cracked the bleeder a bit and could push the piston back in more easily but still tough.
Closed the bleeder, pushed the brake pedal till not further possible, wheel again difficult to turn, cracked the bleeder and some came out, nothing with force. I didn't clean the bleeder valve first ( which I remembered later to really take that out of the trouble shoot equation) but given the fact it let fluid through when I pushed the piston back in before, makes me think it is not blocked or anything.
Wheel only slightly better turning, so I guess the piston still doesn't retract enough.

The brake line should not be bad I think given the findings. It would have been bad right out of the box, being pretty much new.

[Roler]

Just thinking that folks in the US can buy a brand new calliper for $40 bucks. For that money, why even bother trouble shooting or rebuilding a calliper haha.

[awg]

Originally Posted by Roler

Just thinking that folks in the US can buy a brand new calliper for $40 bucks. For that money, why even bother trouble shooting or rebuilding a calliper haha.

I have new pistons, seal kit, pads, from Rockauto waiting to be installed, $90 delivered in 1 week

also have longer brake lines so they will go in

If you check reviews on the new calipers, it say they are POS and give a lot of trouble. OEM is preferred to new rubbish.

I will rebuild mine

[Roler]

Originally Posted by awg

I have new pistons, seal kit, pads, from Rockauto waiting to be installed, $90 delivered in 1 week

also have longer brake lines so they will go in

If you check reviews on the new calipers, it say they are POS and give a lot of trouble. OEM is preferred to new rubbish.

I will rebuild mine

Which of the 4 seal kits did you buy? Can you put them in this weekend and let me know?

I guess the same issue is with rebuilt kits; you can only hope that the seals are decent and of the exact correct size. If not, they'd be pretty useless.

[Jonny Jeep]

When the pedal is released the fluid path to the reservoir is open so there should be no pressure in the brake lines. That allows the piston seal to retract the cylinder slightly from the brake discs, which allows the wheel to turn without resistance. With the wheel still stiff to turn after cracking the bleed valve it would seem the hoses are not the problem.

[Roler]

Originally Posted by Jonny Jeep

When the pedal is released the fluid path to the reservoir is open so there should be no pressure in the brake lines. That allows the piston seal to retract the cylinder slightly from the brake discs, which allows the wheel to turn without resistance. With the wheel still stiff to turn after cracking the bleed valve it would seem the hoses are not the problem.

Thanks for the explanation, I'll see how this goes and leaning towards a rebuild first. I like to do the rebuild actually because I've never done it. If that fails, there is always a new caliper possible.