Time to join the JK Death Wobble club :)

[Bogged]

Check that the bolt, the sleeve and the hole in the bracket are the same size ie: Imperial bolt in a metric hole (which is what we have found is common).

But yes, whether the panhards are new or not (we've seen this with brand new panhards) that the bushes are not flogged out.

Steering dampeners only mask the symptoms. They do nowt with contributing to DW.

[SeaComms]

LCA Drop brackets had been on the wish list, but the minimum requirements are 7in from memory between spring mount and chassis, mines about 1/2 in or more below that

For anyone that has installed them, is this requirement due to clearance issues (ie min 3in bump stop extension for example) or due to the amount of caster it adds?

Will be rechecking everything tonight (now that the damn rain has gone) but I feel its more of a shimmy than a death wobble (like a shopping cart wheel wobble more than the chassis shifting on the axle wobble) so castor is most likely the problem.

Will correct that first then go from there. One thing at a time...

@ Jeepcrazy - the factory castor setting is 4.2 degrees +/- 0.5 (so 3.7 to 4.7). Most articles I have read recommend increasing caster to anything up to 6 or 7 degrees with 3in lift and 35in tyres. Personally I think 7 degrees is going to cause problems with the stock front shaft, but this gives you an idea of the sort of thing required. I will be aiming for about 5* but will need to lay down some more cash for adjustable control arms (more bloody money!) and will go from there.

[MightyMouse]

Run approximately 0.5 degrees more castor on the passengers side than the drivers to help compensate for the camber of the road.

I run 6 and 6.5 degrees respectively. Having access to the technical guys at Bosch Beissbarth ( manufacturers of really cool alligmnment equipment ) i had a looooooong series of discussions and a number of allignment sessions experimenting with settings vs feel etc.

[Nemesis]

Originally Posted by SeaComms

LCA Drop brackets had been on the wish list, but the minimum requirements are 7in from memory between spring mount and chassis, mines about 1/2 in or more below that

For anyone that has installed them, is this requirement due to clearance issues (ie min 3in bump stop extension for example) or due to the amount of caster it adds?

its not a clearance issue, its the angle, for $150 delivered from quadratec id give it a go, It totally fixed my skittery wobbly ride, my control arm holes were oval too from the angle of the control arms they now sit flat so force is not pushed back into the frame.

THE AEV DROP BRACKETS ARE THE SINGLE BEST MODIFICATION I HAVE DONE FOR COMFORT AND HANDLING.

It rides better than stock with my suspension stuff flexi coils.

the AEV front bracket hangs down no further than the rear stock bracket, its not going to be a problem at all.

Adjustable arms wont fix the angle of the control arms.

i bet your control arm chassis holes are flogged out. AEV bracket even comes with 5mm washers for welding over the flogged holes.

[jktom]

Hi Dave
I have the same lift as you, and have run the drop brackets. I loved them. With that lift, they gave me 6 deg of caster, and with that caster and that amount of lift, the pinion angle of the front drive shaft out of the transfer case was a little to much. if you use the drop brackets, you will need upper control arms, not lowers, and will need to lengthen them only a couple of mm to get your caster back to 4.5 to 5 deg. I agree with Nemises, they really did change the way the Jk drove. I installed the drop brackets when I had issues with the bushes in my LCA bushes, but since I now have new bushes, my adjustable LCA's have gone back in. if it was not for the cost of new uppers, I would install the drop brackets in a heartbeat with some Uppers?
PS. My lift was about 20mm to short for the drop brackets according to AEV.

Originally Posted by SeaComms

LCA Drop brackets had been on the wish list, but the minimum requirements are 7in from memory between spring mount and chassis, mines about 1/2 in or more below that

For anyone that has installed them, is this requirement due to clearance issues (ie min 3in bump stop extension for example) or due to the amount of caster it adds?

Will be rechecking everything tonight (now that the damn rain has gone) but I feel its more of a shimmy than a death wobble (like a shopping cart wheel wobble more than the chassis shifting on the axle wobble) so castor is most likely the problem.

Will correct that first then go from there. One thing at a time...

@ Jeepcrazy - the factory castor setting is 4.2 degrees +/- 0.5 (so 3.7 to 4.7). Most articles I have read recommend increasing caster to anything up to 6 or 7 degrees with 3in lift and 35in tyres. Personally I think 7 degrees is going to cause problems with the stock front shaft, but this gives you an idea of the sort of thing required. I will be aiming for about 5* but will need to lay down some more cash for adjustable control arms (more bloody money!) and will go from there.

[SeaComms]

So are you no longer using the brackets now Tom?

[malexander]

Originally Posted by Nemesis

its not a clearance issue, its the angle, for $150 delivered from quadratec id give it a go, It totally fixed my skittery wobbly ride, my control arm holes were oval too from the angle of the control arms they now sit flat so force is not pushed back into the frame.

THE AEV DROP BRACKETS ARE THE SINGLE BEST MODIFICATION I HAVE DONE FOR COMFORT AND HANDLING.

It rides better than stock with my suspension stuff flexi coils.

the AEV front bracket hangs down no further than the rear stock bracket, its not going to be a problem at all.

Adjustable arms wont fix the angle of the control arms.

i bet your control arm chassis holes are flogged out. AEV bracket even comes with 5mm washers for welding over the flogged holes.

Nemesis, if I remember correctly your lift is 2.5"? Are the drop brackets appropriate for this lift or is your lift higher than 2.5".