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  #15  
Old 14-06-2011
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It's been almost 2 months now. After I changed the spark plugs (iridium) and put the original NTK O2 sensors back instead of the crappy Bosch ones, the car started slowly working better and better (in terms of MDS operation). Few days later, the above CEL light with those 2 above codes, that I constantly had on, finally went out on it's own.

They came on once again a week later and then a few days later, again switched off and hadn't come back since. It's now been around a month.

I'm not sure if these codes have anything to do with the MDS operation but it certainly performs better without them coming on.

Perhaps when I was changing the spark plugs and O2 sensors, I might have moved some wires causing better connection somewhere, I just don't know.

From 5 min of driving (from cold start), the MDS stayed on up to 15-18 km and wouldn't stay on beyond that. If I'd floor the gas pedal on a freeway onramp, it wouldn't come on anymore at all. A couple of weeks ago, it started staying on beyond 15-18 km. Now I can do 30-40 km without any problems.

The only thing though, I have to do the throttle myself. The cruise control immediately cuts out the MDS and it never comes back on until I cancel it. I'm not sure if the cruise control sets it back to 4th gear, I'll have to check that one again. It does seem the revs go up a bit. That's one more issue left to sort out.

How can I fix this MDS during cruise control issue?
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  #16  
Old 05-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briteway View Post
My love with the HEMI is still growing stronger despite some small fuel consumption issues but I feel I'll get to the bottom of it.
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Originally Posted by briteway View Post
They came on once again a week later and then a few days later, again switched off and hadn't come back since. It's now been around a month.

I'm not sure if these codes have anything to do with the MDS operation but it certainly performs better without them coming on.

...

The only thing though, I have to do the throttle myself. The cruise control immediately cuts out the MDS and it never comes back on until I cancel it.

How can I fix this MDS during cruise control issue?
Just in case anyone gets similar symptoms, after changing the oil with the correct blood type a couple of times, the MDS started working better and better progressively. The cruise control issue also fixed itself up after the old heavy oil got completely flushed out and now the MDS works with it just like new.

The fuel consumption also improved as a result. Only in very heavy traffic situations, like moving 200m in 1/2hr (Sydney, by the way), it would peak over 25L/100km (highest 27.8L). Mostly other times in traffic it would be averaging at 20L/100km. During off-peak it averages between 16 and 18L/100km and open road driving, I got it down to 13L/100km in a few separate trips so far. Now that's more like it. I went through a torture in the last year or so, which was caused by the mechanics in the first place.

Now that I've also replaced the battery, the computer probably reset itself. I've noticed an immediate improvement in various areas. My off-peak driving went down from previous 16-18L/100km to 15's and quite easy. Same routes, same conditions. In addition to that, just in the last 3 weeks, I started getting a vibration when the MDS cuts out or when it goes back to 8 cylinder mode. Obviously, on an incline so when more gas is needed. At first, it was a slight vibration which turned into something more annoying just before the battery finally shat itself last weekend. I was going to look into it this week after the battery gets sorted out. So I did a 40km trip and no vibration after MDS cutout anymore. Could it be caused by a weak battery in the first place or the resetting of computer??? Hmmm.

Just wanted to let you all know if anyone stumbles across the same issues. Probably first thing, reset the computer by disconnecting the negative for at least 10 minutes. Then again, it could be a combination of things: oil viscosity, battery, computer reset...

EDIT: Those codes never came back up again. It's been now 8 months.
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Last edited by briteway; 05-01-2012 at 09:21 AM.
  #17  
Old 05-01-2012
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Mines the CRD - so very different obviously. But my MIL was coming on every now and then, as was the "Service 4WD System". I got a new battery, and now all is good. Gotta love Jeeps and their battery issues.

Since my WJ I always investigated the battery first if ever any codes came up.
  #18  
Old 05-01-2012
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i got tired of the battery being sucked empty when you leave the doors open or the stereo on while camping or even a little while ago i left the bonnet up for 2 days in the garage and guess what no start.
i finally have a second battery in now i have changed my air intake and dont worry anymore.
Its true the jeep doesnt like low voltage and like you guys most of my warnings like service 4wd etc fix themselves by disconnecting the batt for at least 10 minutes.i always check the code first though just in case.
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  #19  
Old 05-01-2012
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Originally Posted by popeyeroo View Post
Its true the jeep doesnt like low voltage and like you guys most of my warnings like service 4wd etc fix themselves by disconnecting the batt for at least 10 minutes.i always check the code first though just in case.
Yep!

Hey popeyeroo, how're you going mate? Haven't seen your posts for a while now. I still remember the issues I discussed with you in terms of fuel economy and couldn't believe that you were getting it that good with your HEMI. Well, I finally sorted mine out and every time I'm getting good readings, you cross my mind (as well as that Android app) LOL
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  #20  
Old 22-01-2012
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For those who have and use Superchips, there's an update, just updated mine
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  #21  
Old 15-04-2012
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Wow, since I took the Jeep into my own hands the fuel consumption has improved dramatically.

The best I've gotten so far was 12.9L/100km on a 300km trip and standard tyres without lift.

I just did a 2500km trip with 2" lift and 2 inches larger tyres, giving me another inch of clearance. So, having in mind that my Jeep is 3" higher now, I thought my fuel consumption would be much worse. Prior to the record of 12.9L over 300km distance I did a similar trip to the current one last year, along the same route but adding an extra 1000km (around 3500km) and the best I had was 15.4L but that was while I was still in the process of figuring out the problems causing such high fuel consumption.

Now, with the car lifted and larger tyres, I managed to get 11.8L/100km as my best ever. Thanks to the SuperChips programmer, I did recalibrate the tyre size and it matches the GPS readout and the 5km SPEEDO CHECKS on the freeways/highways. I also verified it on the pump and the pump gives me an even better reading than the EVIC, by .2 or .3 of a litre and sometimes even by .5 of a litre. This again shows that my speedo is calibrated properly. I can just say, WOW for a HEMI, it's pretty good. Also, I did not "cheat" and reset the EVIC average consumption settings for a week prior to the journey and this includes offroad low-range four wheel driving at times where it reached 22L.

In the past, I never believed it was possible with the HEMI (even from brand spanker) when people used to say they did it on theirs but now I'm happy that I've achieved that too. Proper maintenance (lubricants/gunk/sensors, etc.) is the key for good fuel economy. Most of this was on E10 (oops for revealing... I know, I know...) with the SC Tuner programmed to 87 performance tune.
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