How are D30 and 35's holding up? - Page 3 - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand

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  #15  
Old 23-01-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brenttj View Post
you boys are all running reductions gearing apart from chippi right??
Chippi runs 4.88 with standard t cased (crd)
I run 488s with rubi case (crd)
DBL BLK 488s with Rubi
Mightymouse 410s with Rubi
Psycho 488s with rubi
Zac runs 513s with Rubi
  #16  
Old 23-01-2012
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That has to be one of the best wheeling vids for JKs I have seen, they get pounded,
Id love to do something with your raw footage as in editing. some grest stuff to work with.
  #17  
Old 24-01-2012
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Id love to be able to send something to you to play with. Were doing some sand driving this weekend, may shoot you some footage.
  #18  
Old 22-02-2012
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Im just about to instal my 2.5' lift this saturday and if all goes good will be putting on 35" MTZ tyres, now if no hassles or issues I may have a bit more money to spend but have 2 choices can only do the one for now that is diff sleeves and C gussets or the diesel turbo aftermarket pipes?

What do you guys think?
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  #19  
Old 23-02-2012
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We wre able to keep our D30's together for years on our TJ's... you just have to be sensible.

Don't reverse up hill with your front wheels turned.

Even when going forwards, don't get into situations where you are turned hard into something and get bound up.

Don't get 'air' under the front end and land spinning... big shock loads.

In mud and on dirt the traction is generally less, so you can keep a D30 alive. Get on the rocks... different story.

The only breakages I have seen (1st hand) in Aus are broken uni joint (from doing circle work in 1-Hi in mud, turned hard, lockers on), busted locker/uni from getting bound up turned into a bank (lockers on etc), and a knuckle broken off/busted locker from both front wheels coming off the ground on a full throttle climb and landing hard (hooks up, and bang!)... and 1 bent housing (tubes) from jumping the car.

Took us about 6 hrs to drag the last car back through a creek to get to a spot we could rig up a fix to get it out.

All of the above were TJ dana 30's, 35", and 4.56 gears (manual).

I eventually bit the bullet and threw some Dana60's under to go to 38.5's, but that, my friends, is where things really get sideways...

S.
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  #20  
Old 23-02-2012
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as u said firetruck if the front wheels leave the ground make sure the power is off when they come back down.

all said and done it come down to driving style the bigger the tyres the easer u have to be on the driveline (mind u the bigger the tyres the easyer it does it too)
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  #21  
Old 23-02-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigperth View Post
I am glad this has come up...

I am hoping that by the end of this year to be running 35's on the D30 front... I will run 3.56 gears (I have an auto petrol and currently on 33's and 3.73, its fine but will be to sluggish on 35's, I also only have stock rims)

Plan is

4.56, tubed and seals, cgussets... rims and of course 35's
As I have mentioned in another thread I have a CRD on 35's with D30 4.88 gussets and sleeves ARB locker and ARB pothat. Only thing I was holding back on was chromoly axles. Totally smashed the diff a few weeks back during a adventurous act to get out of a tough spot. The damage was a real surprize as I had been told that in all but extreme situations the reinforced D30 would be okay.

After reading this thread i now know why it was so badly damaged. It was a lengthy steep muddy hole that joined a hard dry steep bank. I took it at too fast, front passengers side got airborne. Wheel would have been spinning flat out resulting in a real axle twist when it bumped down hard. Was a bit of a bang and had to then wheel home.

Would a chromoly axle have coped? don't know but the stock axle certainly couldn't.

Will be posting pic FYI
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Last edited by SharpWraX; 23-02-2012 at 10:44 PM.
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