The Jheap stopped!

[junglejuice]

At least we got it working hey Easy? It helps being able to test the parts as well....
You just need to get a new one now or we can work out something on that one....

JJ

[Mitch]

Was the outer plastic caseing of the coil cracked?This was the case with mine and the coil shorted out on the block and fried the CAS on the bell housing.

[warmapple]

Originally Posted by Easy Rollins 1

Well....it was the coil.



I was trying to search the net for fault finding tips...but it seems to be a bit of a grey area.Some say check volts,some say check ohms.

I tried both with my $20 multimeter and come up with bugger all to write about.

Hey, I know very little about cars but what I do know may help you understand a little better?

If you were checking an electrical coil there are two methods of doing it. One is testing the resistance of the Coil (ohms) and the 2nd method is checking if you have a voltage reading on the output of the coil.

If the coil had broken and you tested on ohms you would have seen on your multimeter didn't do anything or if it is digital it showed O/L as there was no electrical path. (you wouldn't have got a reading)

Same when you were testing the voltage (on the output) broken coil = no reading on your multimeter.

I hope this is clear but it probably isn't lol

Ian

[Easy Rollins 1]

Doubt it makes a diff,my coil had no insulation around the boltholes.

I'll dig it out and post a pic in the AM.


JJ,no worries.I'd like yours for a spare if that's ok.Will chat later.



Edit-Thanks WA,yeah got bugger all both ways.

[Easy Rollins 1]

MSD is on the way.

[junglejuice]

Originally Posted by warmapple

Hey, I know very little about cars but what I do know may help you understand a little better?

If you were checking an electrical coil there are two methods of doing it. One is testing the resistance of the Coil (ohms) and the 2nd method is checking if you have a voltage reading on the output of the coil.

If the coil had broken and you tested on ohms you would have seen on your multimeter didn't do anything or if it is digital it showed O/L as there was no electrical path. (you wouldn't have got a reading)

Same when you were testing the voltage (on the output) broken coil = no reading on your multimeter.

I hope this is clear but it probably isn't lol

Ian

Problem with using a multimeter for these tests is that you can't measure the output of the coil as it is too high a voltage, well over 20,000V!!! Most meters are rated for only 1000V.
Secondly if the coil is open circuit like Easy's was and you measure the voltage on the primary side and it shows say 12.5V doesn't mean that a good coil plugged into the same wiring will still have 12.5V at it's terminals, the issue is these days meters have such high input impedance that they place almost no load on a ciruit (which is ideal most of the time) the drama is if there is a high resistance joint in the circuit and you have no load it will still show the full voltage like there is no problem but when you connect a load to it the voltage will almost disappear giving a false information for your fault finding procedure.

In this instance we fitted the suspect coil to a known running vehicle and it wouldn't start, we then fitted a second unknown condition coil to the same vehicle and it did start.

Originally Posted by Easy Rollins 1

MSD is on the way.

How many fun vouchers for this little gem?

[Easy Rollins 1]

Originally Posted by junglejuice

How many fun vouchers for this little gem?

US$77 posted.Curios to see how long it takes.