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  #15  
Old 25-08-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRDSTU View Post
I'd personally never recommend or install an eaton e-locker or EZY locker ever again, seen too many troubles with them, very unreliable in my eyes and experience.
Care to expand on these points Stu??
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  #16  
Old 25-08-2012
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Originally Posted by Black thunder View Post
Yeh I think I will go what Stu recomends front arb locker and 4.56 gear.
Will I need to regear rear to 4.56 as well.
You need the same gears front and rear.....
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  #17  
Old 26-08-2012
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4.56 for a manual 3.8L V6 and 285/70r17 tyres? Apart from an issue with availability which seems to be only from Mopar what's wrong with 4.1 ratios?
  #18  
Old 26-08-2012
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Sorry for my lack of understanding in advance
So the front is 3.21 gearing the back is 4.10 gearing from factory
Everyone is saying you have to have the same gearing front and back, why is this so when from factory they arent equiped like that.
I sort of agree with yom and dave 4.10 as the deisel come from factory with this gearing front and rear dont they ( correct me if I am wrong )
If this is the case I could go front locker and just regear the front to 4.10 to match the rear and then when I get extra cash just put in a rear locker.
The lockers will help me at places like LCMP with some of those harder runs
Thanks everyone for there thought
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Last edited by Green Goblin; 26-08-2012 at 07:55 AM.
  #19  
Old 26-08-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yom View Post
4.56 for a manual 3.8L V6 and 285/70r17 tyres? Apart from an issue with availability which seems to be only from Mopar what's wrong with 4.1 ratios?
Can of worms stu your opening mate, I would go rear over the front due to the weakness of the 30.
456 are available in the aftermarket but 410s are genuine only. Got em both on the shelf.
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Old 26-08-2012
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Originally Posted by double black offroad View Post
Can of worms stu your opening mate, I would go rear over the front due to the weakness of the 30.
456 are available in the aftermarket but 410s are genuine only. Got em both on the shelf.
It is so confusing Bill different people with different advise, wish I had the extra cash to do it all at once.
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  #21  
Old 26-08-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodxj View Post
Care to expand on these points Stu??
Seen quite a few of the electric magneto activation coils burn out and fail, and due to the fact they're LSD when not engaged, it makes it even harder to know when its actually working or not. This was the case with a vehicle we had here, but there' quite a few in the states that have had the same issues, quite common. Also the internals being an LSD are not as strong as the ARB internals.

With things like True Tracs and posi tracs, they also become seriously harsh on the axles / CV's when loading and unloading. If I can find a video of a recent trip we did you can see a KJ climbing up through a rutted section and the Tru Tracs going bananas trying to keep up - the whip lash on the axles/CV's is eye wateringly bad.....

There's also a TONNE of control when using selectable lockers like ARB's and less strain on the drivetrain as its locked when traversing ie: no wheel slip. Its wheel slip then wheel grip that destroys diff internals and axles / unis ect.
There's also the times when you need some front lock and no rear lock to pull yourself around an obstacle like a tree ect at the top of a rutter climb. After you've manourvered around it you can turn off the front then leave the rear on to skid steer around it

The only thing that makes a D30 weak or vaunerable is larger tyres and the drivers input. Its ultimatley the driver that dictates wether the D30 will lunch itself or not.

I guess its also a case of whatever floats your boat do what you want :P!
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Last edited by CRDSTU; 26-08-2012 at 08:51 AM.
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