Timing belt replacement

[brianwood]

Just one final question before embarking on this job in the morning.
Do the cam gears align on some sort of keyway on the camshafts?
I dont have any special tools and was just worried if the cams moved in the process, how to get them back in alignment

[Hanna]

Originally Posted by brianwood

Just one final question before embarking on this job in the morning.
Do the cam gears align on some sort of keyway on the camshafts?
I dont have any special tools and was just worried if the cams moved in the process, how to get them back in alignment

No they don't. You really need the camshaft locking pins as a minimum or you're looking for trouble in my opinion. Not saying it can't be done without them, but if you make a mistake it will be very costly.

I suggest you have a good read of this thread before starting the job: http:// http://colorado4wheel.com/content/KJ_TB.html


From memory you are also planning to change the water pump as well? This adds a new complexity to the job as you cannot get to the pump without removing the cam gears first. Changing the belt without the locking pins is one thing, at least you can mark the cam gears etc. but changing the water pump as well is risky.

How are planning to hold the cam gears whilst you undo them? You'd better look into that as well before attempting it.

Good luck.

[glend]

Don't try it without the cam locking pins, or some sort of pin in there. If you read the available info you will see where the intake and exhaust cam pins go through the cover. It doesn't sound like your prepared for this job.

[brianwood]

Well, we had a successful day. I decided against replacing the water pump until I get the cam gear locking tool.
I found a 7mm drill bit fitted perfectly to lock the cam shafts. Everything went smoothly after we eventually got the darned fan and shroud out of the way. We ended up making a "special tool" which locks the fan pulley while undoing - its an easier option than the 13mm socket.
So it was all pretty clean in there considering this engine has done 185,000km+. The belt had obviously been replaced before and was looking a little tired although, at a guess, I would say had another 20,000km in it.
The only thing I couldnt do was torque the 2 idler bolts down, as the torque wrench only worked for RH threads. So I did a "best guess" and used loctite.
Only concern was the auxiliary idlers and fan bearings were a bit tired. Will need to be replaced fairly soon.
Thanks all for your input.

[senatorjohn]

Got stuck into the timing belt change today using the cam locking pins. If I did not rock the cams back and forth with a spanner and screw the locking pins in as tight as I could with my fingers, both cams had one tooth movement which is no good at all. Did not mark the belt and sprockets with a paint pen as suggested by Darren. This would have given me a good reference from the original timing which had not been disturbed since manufacture, and the job would have taken half the time. The only time this would be iffy would be if the timing was out before you started the job. Don't know how your vehicle would be running if that was the case. After turning the engine over three times, the pins went in easily, the allen key sitting in the bell housing was parallel to the engine centreline, and the high pressure pump timing mark was in line with its mark. ( why the hell we time the high pressure pump has got me beat - no wonder many people ignore this step- took a few goes to get it right.) Stuffed a rag under the crankshaft sprocket to stop the belt from falling off. Put the right side idler on after the belt was inplace. Seemed easier that way. Will finish off on Saturday and see how it runs. Hopefully I have not stuffed up.
John

[senatorjohn]

Seriously considered doing the water pump but a few extra tight bolts scared me, and I decided to leave the pump until a very inconvenient time miles from nowhere in the mid summer heat.
John

[brianwood]

I did the same John, left the water pump until it fails,..bit of a hassle to get to.