Got a late 2005 GC-L WH

[WilliamAR]

Some... "advances", like everything in this car, it's one step forward, 2 sideways and 4 back

1) it's not the EGR elbow, i checked with boroscope and it's intact, it also doesn't leak any gas through.
The turbo whooshing sound is in the front of the car, near the air filter, but the IC to valve hose is in good condition, no cracks or tears.

2) I got to test with the turbo boost leak tester, problem is, it doesn't fits, i check your photos Alex (https://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum...&postcount=224) and mine does NOT fit at all as the gauge impacts the fuel filter body and sensor, i had to put the body all the way inside the hose, and even then it it enters angled at the turbo and had to really crank the hose clamp to near minimum to stop it from leaking there

I have no idea how you managed to make yours fit, unless you chopped the hose
In any case, after bruteforcing it and wasting like an hour and half trying to make it fit, the locking tab of the air hose broke, so i have to keep it pressed on the inlet by hand to test.
What we found is that the outlet hose to resonator had an important leak, the oring did not look bad or hard but i replaced both ends anyway with the idparts kit with ample dow33 application to the oring and pipe, the turbo outlet oring was a red silicone oring which also looked to be in good nick.
That took care of that leak, but after pressurizing to ~10 to 15 psi, a huge leak sprung on the inlet valve assembly between the plastic hose inlet(where the temp sensor is plugged) and the metal body on the underside
THAT'S where the turbo whooshing sound came out, now i'm researching to see what seal/gasket goes there and in the meantime removed the entire airbox for easy access and to clean it, the inside is caked in hardened dirt. I also found that the intake pipe has two sets of holes covered by a metal micromesh ¿what are those for?, they were completely clogged so i washed everything

I also notice that ONE of the bolts is not the same as the others, the rest are all inverted torx and the one on the right is a regular torx, it also isn't fastened all the way in and has a washer(but the leak is not topside but underside that part) -did not try to fasten yet-, i fear this is another case of point 4 below.
EDIT: found a photo from january where that bolt is not loose and the flange looks flush with the valve

3) the coolant expansion tank bottom is super grimy with deposits, when i change coolant i'll see how can i clean it, ¿do i use rice and bleach?


4) ¿did i also mentioned that i have stripped threads all over the engine bay in my first post?
they destroyed a lot of the threads on the block with bad screws, one of them is the retaining bolt for the metal hose, they put a 6mm inverted torx bolt and destroyed the threads, luckily the bottom part was somewhat ok and we managed to somewhat fix it with a tap(i don't have thread chasers).
The airbox nut thread was also mangled, one of the fuel filter retaining bolts, and one for the egr valve(they put a bolt with an external nut, the bolt is also crooked) -if not more-

5) I also discovered that the fog lamps have been replaced with aftermarket HID bulbs as i found one of the ballast modules zip-tied to the frame(after removing the airbox), with heatshrunk leads going into connectors, the right one is also busted as the land glass broke and they replaced it with some clear thin plastic cut by shears and glued with silicone caulk... the plastic ofc broke easily and allowed water/whatever to go inside....
¿what the stock bulb for the fog lamps?, i have to see if i find an entire replacement for both assemblies, but it's not a priority atm.

[WilliamAR]

Took apart the hose flange, the suspect bolts actually looks original (but why would they go for a T20 torx when the rest are inverted torx) -¿can someone confirm if that bolt is the same in their car?.

And... shit, the 5175729AA seal has a chunk missing the surface is also coarse as can be seen in the photo


I hope i can find it at the FCA stealership or the merc stealership during the week.

Plans to put it back together involve a grover or nordlock washer and loctite 242/271 for the thread to prevent it backing out again

[WilliamAR]

As always stock does not exist in my country, FCA stealership directly had no idea what that code was "it isn't in our system".

Merc came through(and at a surprinsgly very cheap price) but it's special order with 30+ days of delivery, ordered 2, in the meantime i'll 3d-print a replacement to move the car to the ramps(or just leave it as-is open).
Also got loctite 243 as it has replaced 242 and locks better

[alexbrown64]

Looks like your working through the problems.
With my turbo leak kit, I just rotated the gauge until it cleared the fuel filter.
You could also remove the fuel filter in 5 minutes which would give you ample room.
Good pick up on that plastic intake flange. The sensor that plugs into that also breaks sometimes and can cause leaks and all sorts of problems.

I cleaned my tank with bleach and rice. Soak, shake, soak, shake.. comes up nice by the end of the day.

For stripped threads I have a helicoil kit. Ebay has ones with M5-M10 pretty cheap.

Sounds like some previous owners were butchers. I think with the care your putting in, she will be good soon enough. Daughters car has zero problems now, and she drives hers daily and even uses it as a work car.

Cheers,

[WilliamAR]

I don't remember if i tried rotating it sideways, if it keeps leaking as i left it now i'll try that.

I wanted to avoid removing the fuel filter as it's a hassle, also one of the threads that holds it is ALSO stripped.

i don't think the owner were butchers, but the extremely shoddy mechanics, in fact we picked up this jeep from said mechanic that put her "together" and it was "all good"... balooney...

The temp sensor looks ok, it was caked in oil and grime on the outside but not inside the plug, will change the oring to be safe.

Another thing we noticed is that the flange mating surface(the plastic side) is not flush, it's slightly bowed(i'd say the runout is less than half a mm, but if you lay it on a flat surface you can make it rock side to side), nothing that a course of sandpaper on a glass won't fix.

another adventure is changing the battery and fixing the TPMS sensors, got 5 2450 cells and we'll be change the batt out of each one, one of them has a broken stem but by sheer luck i found a replacement stem locally(i like the TPMS system, don't plan to disable it).

i've read/seen videos about helicoil kits but never used one, just did a quick check locally and they're quite expensive(around 90 USD per size for the kit) and they come in single sizes, there's always the option to rebore to a bigger thread.

¿are the threads on the engine all metric?

oh and i forgot that near the aftermarket HID butchery, there's an open connector that's all corroded with copper oxide, so it's live and reacting with water as it sits quite low, will have to trace to see what it is

[WilliamAR]

update:
MB dealer called that the seals were in(1 week instead of 1 month, yay!), for anyone interested the MB part is: A6421410180

In any case, replaced the seal, put loctite 243 and a serrated washer on the long thread bolt, replaced the IAT sensor oring with a metric 2x11.5 and replaced the seal on the IC output hose, all lubed by dow33.
Retested with leak tester, no more leaks! (there's a TON of blowby through the rings, but i guess that's to be expected), YAY.
Discovered another stripped thread on one of the screws holding the metal bracket that goes

Put everything together and it's still working like a turd... i'm very miffed:
Still getting P0046 code
Still getting the hesitation at ~40~50kph (haven't been able to monitor the wheel rpm yet)

And it also feels like the rpm of the engine does not translate to wheel movement, as if there was lots of slippage, ¿is this a normal feeling for a TC AT?, i've only driven MT and DSG cars, where you can feel that a turn of the engine moves the wheels directly, but on this car you press the accelerator and.... you get a lot of engine turns but the car does not respond as it should with a MT (your engines revs a lot but the car hardly gains speed)

[alexbrown64]

Could all be related to your code P0046 which is turbo boost.
If your not getting boost, your car will feel gutless and have no power, hence having to rev it higher to make it move. A bit like turbo lag. One of the symptoms is hesitation as well.
I would say that with your code, hesitation, lack of power etc.. you have a problematic actuator.
The Chinese actuators are cheap and will help you diagnose your problem.
Get a G-001 and see if it cures your problems. Also, make sure the Rod that connects the actuator to turbo is nice and loose.

Cheers,