DIFF UPGRADES - Page 3 - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand

billsta · #15 11-09-2002

you proberly can "MOVE" the rear 44 to the front, and plant a 60 pumkin in the rear.. but why? do you really need that? what you want to do with your TJ? but then again, if you really want, yuo dont need reasons. :D
how ever, i'd reckon 44 front and rear are cool. think 60 might be an over kill, i'd investigate a 44 fornt end.. :D (USD$3200 D44 rev 4.56 bolt on with Detroit [img]smile.gif[/img] )
35-4.56 or even 4.88's :D greed is good :D

WOLF · #16 13-09-2002

Yeh I did buy Rob Pamplings Wrangler about two and a half months ago now.
When it comes to four wheel driving I've been driving them for years , but I have never had any experience with Wranglers.
The first time I took it out on a trip, it shit over any other vehicle on the run that day.And made the day pretty ordinary realy! [img]tongue.gif[/img]

Some of the guys on that run mensioned that the DANA 30 was not the strongest of diffs,and if we keep doing these runs without a stonger diff it WILL break.SO I thought if I was going to do an upgrade I may as well put in the strongest,But because I dont know anyone who has a wrangler I got on to this site? [img]graemlins/dunno.gif[/img]

Every 4x4 shop you go to bag out anything that is'nt a TOYOTA and dont want a bar of you if you dont have one. :mad: SO I'm relying on a group of people WITH JEEP experience to give me the advice that I need!!!! :confused:

THANKS WOLF

billsta · #17 13-09-2002

Quote:

Originally posted by WOLF:
Every 4x4 shop you go to bag out anything that is'nt a TOYOTA and dont want a bar of you if you dont have one. :mad: SO I'm relying on a group of people WITH JEEP experience to give me the advice that I need!!!! :confused:

we can feel your pain :(
usually toyota driver will tell you your dana30 suck, cos you just drove up the hill and he didnt :D
what i reckon you'd might want to do, (opinion) get ya self a diff gard, and keep driving till something break.

remember, some of the WA guys here will lead you to the right direction...... where jeeps will be happy...

Wooders · #18 13-09-2002

Well wolfe, they have definately been feeding you some BS....My Dana30 is stock except for the lcoker (more stress) and the lower gears (weaker)...Now I don't think I'm too gun hoo - but I don't think I patsy about either...
it's been well over 2½years with this bone stocker Dana30 turning 35" ProComp Muddies and not one problem - not one!!
Now I've just migrated to 36 TSL Swampers on beadlocks on the same diff - it's really an underrated diff...Don't write it off too easily...

Heck anyone that went to Tuff Truck last year will recall the lengthen CJ5 that rolled not once but twice - powered by a V8 and turning 38.5SX swampers - front diff was you guessed it a puny Dana30.....I asked him about it and he just shrugged his shoulders and said it's not breaking....

Now you've really found that most shops are biased against Jeeps - we know EXACTLY how you feel...But there ARE some good Jeep shops about - Check out the Suppliers thread in the Sticky section. Most will readily ship Aust wide they'll be able to help a lot more. Then just apply a bit of brain power to come up with different solutions for different problems.....

AussieCJ7 · #19 13-09-2002

wolfe

dont get us wrong the dana 30 is not a tough diff but it more than tough enough for most people in a TJ or CJ

those who break it have big tyres and use too much skinny peddle

u can break anything if u try hard enough

there is a guy in our club that broke a dana 60 rear and now runs a dana 70 [img]graemlins/crying.gif[/img] but that is in a j10

run the 30 till u break it then upgrade if need be or runn warn full floaters if u want a bit more strength

JP Mark · #20 15-09-2002

Lower diff ratios is a bit of insurance against breakage in that you'll be able to approach obstacles slower and with more control. No high RPM - no bouncing - no breakages (most of the time ;) ). Guys have broken front and rear axles in Wranglers but they were using 36" swampers and a lot of pedal or 35x14.5 swampers at Tuff truck (that was a D44 front) and US mags will tell you to upgrade but we've had a few trouble-free years over hear with the D30 so cheaper just to stick with it. Sure the stress fractures we create today might haunt us tomorrow but that will be the time to upgrade. Driving style will be the key to longevity.

Dale · #21 15-09-2002

Hey Wolf,
Do you know if you have a Slip yoke Eliminator? If you don't I can asure you that you will do a transfer case outut shaft b4 you do any damage to the front diff.

I have managed to bend a rear axle(at the same time I snapped the output shaft).

You can upgrade the D30 to D44 can't you? Jumbo's done it hasn't he?