Car Fridge Power

[Blujeep]

Yes under size wiring will increase resistance, and cause heat issues, which will in turn decrease the efficiency slightly, but this not causing your problem.
If you are blowing 30 amp fuses then your fridge is pulling more than 30 amps, check the power requirements of your fridge to see what its max power use is. im sure it will be much lower.
30 amps is 360 watts.
i think you problem is most likely being caused by power leaking to ground some where between the fuse and the fridge compressor, a cut or squashed wire some where could cause this.

[BLU-125]

Blujeep, if undersize cable causes voltage drop, the current will go up......as will heat.

[Blujeep]

BLU-125
You are quite right, but not enough to blow a 30 amp fuse.
Im not sure what the fridge pulls under load, but i think its 6 amps (i may be wrong ).
This is too much for a standard cig lighter plug and wiring, as already been stated by others, and the plug will get hot and the fridge wont get full power.
but this would NOT cause a fuse to blow.
if the resistance and heat build up in the plug was soaking up over 20 amps the result would be a fire in your dash.
If the fridge does require 30 amps under load then everything i have is absolutely pointless, but i dont think it does.

[Nudge]

I ran directly from my battery via a 20amp fuse Separately from the cigi lighter socket wireing I tried to run it from before.
Now with a 4mm wire ( Power & Earth ) into a Hella socket the problem went away, it now run's constantly @ all temp's.

Now the hard part is to get the temp right for the Burban's.

[cmohr]

Well, I had this hassle too in the KJ, Weaco 35lt fridge would run for a while, but always seemed to error from lack of voltage. I put in an Optima Yellow top, and it was better but, still after 3hrs or so it was erroring again. So I did as you all said, ran a 6mm power and earth, direct connection from the battery, put a fuse inline about 10cm from the battery(just incase of any shorts I wont have a "Live wire" running thru the car) then thru the firewall and down to the fridge in the boot, and presto.....Fridge ran all last longweekend from Friday night to Monday night without a hitch...Excellent!!!
I also left it as a separate outlet beside the fridge, so I still have the original outlet in the boot if I want to run a light or something as well.

Good info guys.

Thanks cmohr

[Big Dave]

I run the Waeco CF50 in the back of my XJ plugged into the Waeco RAPS12 wired staright into my single battery without any issues at all.

see here http://www.waeco.com.au/products.asp...d=&subCatId2=#

[cmohr]

Originally Posted by Big Dave

I run the Waeco CF50 in the back of my XJ plugged into the Waeco RAPS12 wired staright into my single battery without any issues at all.

see here http://www.waeco.com.au/products.asp...d=&subCatId2=#

yeah, I saw that down at BCF for $108.00 the day after I did my own wiring. But, my wiring only cost $20.00, so I'm still happy, fridge itself already has battery protection so I'm covered. Still, it's nice to know Weaco have addressed the problem, they just need the places that sell their products to be a little more knowlegable about whats really needed to run the fridge. Place I bought mine said normal wiring would be fine, and then said, I'd have to talk to an auto elec to get the problem sorted, or, buy the Weaco battery, which I suspect would have had the same issue with power as the fridge. Thats why I'm happy there is always the right info here on AJOR.