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  #22  
Old 17-07-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yom View Post
Camber on a JK is meant to be slightly negative (as in wheels tip in slightly at the top). Can't remember the spec all I know is that mine was out of spec before it had 5000km on the clock and I'm super mindful of axle weakness to the point where I slow down for speed bumps and driveway entries like I'm driving my Golf...lol. I don't think the JK is engineered properly for the diesel to be upfront or even a beefy steel bar to be installed?

pos thing lol. at least the axle seals don't leak when the camber gets changed
Yom, JK specs 0 degrees, straight up & down, straight out of the Jeep manual, mine had 3 degrees after doing this to it & welding it it up again, straitened it back to 0 degrees & drives like its on rails
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  #23  
Old 17-07-2010
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My JK Unlimited has been through the following lifecycle and all along the way right from the show room to now IT STILL PULLS TO THE LEFT

Stock 16" Wheels and Stock Tyres - Pulled to the left

2'5" Teraflex BB with Stock Wheels and Tyres - Pulled to the left

Added 17" Wheels and 33" MTZ's - Pulled to the Left

Added 35" MTZ's - Pulled to the Left

3'5" AEV Premium Lift - Pulled to the Left

All this with numerious wheel allignments along the way and in some cases by highly regarded specialists on this Forum - And have always checked and tried differnt tyre pressures.

I read somewhere about something called thrust angle where the rear diff has iether the left or right side slightly in front of the other to conpansate for road camber

So my guess is the Crysler einsteins falied to think that since we drive on the other side of the road in Aus that the thrust angle should be reversed to what it is in US.

Same as the fact that the front and rear panhard rods are arc at apposing angles - LAZY ENGINEERING\Manufactoring

So as much as i dispise and hate the saying its a jeep thing (because its a get out of jail card jeepers give Crysler) i'd have to say imo "its a jeep thing"
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  #24  
Old 17-07-2010
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Sorry, I have to disagree. Despite no one being able to find what wrong, there has to be something wrong as this is not normal. Mine is 2000km old now, at 1000km I stuck in Mopar 2 inch coils. It drove perfect both before and after as does most of them. If most drive fine, then the ones that dont must have a problem. Simple as that!

Check your diffs are parallel to each other - ie, measure the distance between wheels front to back both sides - should be identical, bet it isnt. This is normally only checked in a full 4 wheel alignment - usually only done when the rear is actually adjustable.
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  #25  
Old 17-07-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
Sorry, I have to disagree. Despite no one being able to find what wrong, there has to be something wrong as this is not normal. Mine is 2000km old now, at 1000km I stuck in Mopar 2 inch coils. It drove perfect both before and after as does most of them. If most drive fine, then the ones that dont must have a problem. Simple as that!

Check your diffs are parallel to each other - ie, measure the distance between wheels front to back both sides - should be identical, bet it isnt. This is normally only checked in a full 4 wheel alignment - usually only done when the rear is actually adjustable.

The only way to have fully adjustable on the JK is to have Front/rear ACA's both upper and lower...

Most of the 3" + kits provide this adjustability...

Remember that most 'kits' will need time to settle and that normally will take up to six months... most are also designed to carry far more weight than what's on your stock JK...

My OME HD was over 3" but is more like 21/2" now but its 3 years (almost) and a lot more weight steel , winch, etc etc...

Non of the lifts (or very few) that are (at settled rate) under 21/2" will provide anything other than spring/shock (spacer) adjustment because there is so lttle to change...
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Last edited by Gravel; 17-07-2010 at 10:53 AM.
  #26  
Old 17-07-2010
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Mine was pulling to the right after I installed 1" spacers and took it for wheel alignment. After I took it back, the guys at Jax Quick fit Castle Hill fixed it. Tracking as straight as a TJ on a winding road now.
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Last edited by ausjeeper; 17-07-2010 at 12:31 PM.
  #27  
Old 17-07-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
Sorry, I have to disagree. Despite no one being able to find what wrong, there has to be something wrong as this is not normal. Mine is 2000km old now, at 1000km I stuck in Mopar 2 inch coils. It drove perfect both before and after as does most of them. If most drive fine, then the ones that dont must have a problem. Simple as that!

Check your diffs are parallel to each other - ie, measure the distance between wheels front to back both sides - should be identical, bet it isnt. This is normally only checked in a full 4 wheel alignment - usually only done when the rear is actually adjustable.
So this Thrust Angle business I've read about is a load of poo then?
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  #28  
Old 17-07-2010
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No, not at all. Thrust angle could be used to keepo a car tracking straight on a normal 2 lane road with its few degree incline to the left in an ideal world.

However, we drive fastest on the freeways and these are not always sloping to the left.

A vehicle should have a neutral thrust angle and suspention geometry in my opinon so that it behaves the same in all environments. Especially with a vehicle like this one designed for off road use, you dont want any left or right traits coming in when least expected!
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