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  #22  
Old 09-01-2024
MuzzaWA  MuzzaWA is offline
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Thanks for the additional info, this looks like fuel line rails to keep them aligned. I meant the bracket which holds the line endings where the o-ring sits in place.

On this diagram it is no 11. I searched all different places but could not find the part number. And as I said, ti still holds them in place but I am not sure if it might be enough.
What vehicle is that parts diagram sourced from? That setup looks like a sprinter.
My WG illustrated parts list shows the clamp as:
* Chrysler P/N: 05080284AA
* MB P/N: A 611-078-19-41 (from MB X-ref list) https://www.mercedesbenz.parts/oem-p...ket-6110781941
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/115416036648

Item #3 below:


For manuals & parts lists, try:
* https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...ux?usp=sharing
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Last edited by MuzzaWA; 10-01-2024 at 12:15 AM.
  #23  
Old 09-01-2024
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This my concern. I exchanged the black o-rings but the white ones did not really look that great either. Any chance anyone has the partnumber for the white o-ring and for the bracket. I might have a feeling that this is actually my fuel leak and the fuel just follows the lines before it drips on the swirl flap rail on to the starter motor and then land on my motor block. Since I am in there is would prefer to replace it properly. Unfortunately the diagram does not show any partnumber.
Part Nº for the white rubber thing is A0069906040. Also, if if it ends up being the High Pressure pump, it can be resealed with a seal kit BOSCH F 01M 101 456 for about 25$. There's some videos on the process on youtube. Most important thing is you need to be surgically clean when doing it.

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  #24  
Old 10-01-2024
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Thanks a lot to both of you for the part number. Was able to buy it from a local supplier. Not sure if they are genuine parts or OEM. I guess I will see, nonetheless the all together was 50 Dollar. Not cheap this stuff.
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Old 10-01-2024
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Part Nº for the white rubber thing is A0069906040.
Chrysler equivalent number is 05139475AA
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  #26  
Old 17-01-2024
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Finally got the upper bolt in and stitched everything together today. Looks like the fuel leak is gone. i will still change he bracket as well as the white o-rings just in case, ordered it already and they are on the way.

Thanks again for all your info and help. made things way easier although it was still a a pain in the butt Don't even want to think of the pain without your help. It looks like i still have an air leak in the fuel system. i reckon it comes from the filter. Not sure how tight this has too be since typically the oil filter is finger tight and is still hard to get off.
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  #27  
Old 18-01-2024
MuzzaWA  MuzzaWA is offline
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Do you still have the original filter setup with the water sensor and drain?
The Ryco equivalent filters (and others I believe...) are not so good on the tolerance side.
I have a thread taped bolt in the drain port as the bottom sealing face is not machined smooth.
Also the water sensor o-rings and top of filter o-rings require replacement.
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Last edited by MuzzaWA; 18-01-2024 at 01:34 AM.
  #28  
Old 18-01-2024
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[QUOTE=MuzzaWA;1695094]Do you still have the original filter setup with the water sensor and drain?
The Ryco equivalent filters (and others I believe...) are not so good on the tolerance side.
I have a thread taped bolt in the drain port as the bottom sealing face is not machined smooth.
Also the water sensor o-rings and top of filter o-rings require replacement./QUOTE]

I deleted the original filter, or better it was deleted half way by the previous owner. He fed the return line straight thru rather than thru the filter. This was one of the plugs with the o-rings already gone. Then I deleted the other one coming out into the fuel lines. I bought a filter for a hilux which has s primer pump.



The fuel leak did come from the not sealed hose clamp when I jammed the original fuel line into the rubber hose coming out of the fuel filter. So that's no issue anymore.


BUT: I had now already 2x the issue why the Jeep got parked in the first place. The "new" starter motor also had already 2 times the issue that the bendix wheel does not engage with the fly wheel but instead scratches only. the motor is definitely ok, but I have my doubts on the solenoid. I am assuming it is not strong enough to push the bendix wheel all the way out at certain times. I wonder if anyone can recommend a solenoid which would fit (searching did not really help although I have the starter motor part number and the maker).

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