2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ 2.5 TD VM engine

[layback40]

Originally Posted by tom.c.coogan

Thanks mate I will give that a try.
I replaced all the diesel hoses in engine bay a year ago so they should be good.

Do the small injector leak off lines have a procedure for bleeding? Or do they self bleed? Mine are dry on cylinders 2,3 and 4. I wonder if that is the issue.

When you say "blow back", do you mean placing the compressed air gun and a rag (to hold some compression) in the fuel tank filler hole to force diesel through to the fuel system?

Many thanks
Tom


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The small injector lines dont need bleeding. I have found that if they have a small leak, it allows air into the system when it sits for a few days. If the end cap is bad, you can place a ball bearing or the end of a bullet headed nail in a short piece of tube to make a block off one.
Blow back by placing compressed air line on the supply hard line before the filter. You dont want to blow back the contents of the filter. Make sure the tank filler cap is off. the idea is to make sure the strainer in the tank is clean. If you do it & then leave the jeep overnight to let any crud settle.
Glad that you are having some success.

[del97td]

dont use the ryco fuel filter much too coarse should be a 5 or 10 micron at the max.
check crank angle sensor back rh of engine on the bellhousing have a habit of the leads getting brittle and breaking

[BrokenJeep]

Not sure if I ever got back to this forum.
I replaced the fuel filter with a Donaldson fuel filter system. Mounted up like a dream.
Went for the 10 micron Donaldson filter assy with glass bowl and water sensor.
Here are the part numbers if anyone else needs to convert the fuel filter on the 2.5 vm diesel
P581682 x1
P576614 X1
P569758 X1
P570619 X1

However, that was not my problem.
When I replaced the leaking seals on the fuel pump I did not align the top part of the pump to the bottom correctly. There is a hole and a dowel that must be coupled. This is very hard to lign up when you are doing the repair in the engine bay. You have to go by how it feels and hold your tonge in the right direction. After getting that bit right, the jeep started first crank.

[BrokenJeep]

So
It's been running like a dream for 8 months now and today was hard to start.
Went to drive it to work and there was no power passed 2000rpm. Limp mode.
I started with blowing the air back to the tank to ensure no sediment on pickup.
I bled the lines from tank, filter, pump and injectors.
Checked the ohms on injector #1 106.5
Disconnected battery and ran it
Checked MAF and plugs
All checked out fine.

Could it be the PCM?
the only fault code I get is 55 which i understand means nothing.

Any ideas where else to look?

Thanks
Tom

[layback40]

Originally Posted by tom.c.coogan

So
It's been running like a dream for 8 months now and today was hard to start.
Went to drive it to work and there was no power passed 2000rpm. Limp mode.
I started with blowing the air back to the tank to ensure no sediment on pickup.
I bled the lines from tank, filter, pump and injectors.
Checked the ohms on injector #1 106.5
Disconnected battery and ran it
Checked MAF and plugs
All checked out fine.

Could it be the PCM?
the only fault code I get is 55 which i understand means nothing.

Any ideas where else to look?

Thanks
Tom

Maybe #1 sensor lead is damaged.
Normally if the ECU is bad, it will not run at all.

[BrokenJeep]

I will check that out tomorrow.
Do you think it could be the wastegate actuator causing this problem? I'm still trying to find a way to test wastegate without unbolting half the engine bay. Do you know an easier way to test this?
Cheers

[layback40]

Originally Posted by tom.c.coogan

I will check that out tomorrow.
Do you think it could be the wastegate actuator causing this problem? I'm still trying to find a way to test wastegate without unbolting half the engine bay. Do you know an easier way to test this?
Cheers

If its coming up to 2,000rpm with power & then having no power its not likely the wastegate as it would reduce power from much lower rpm & it would not have the 2000rpm change. You could check to see if the wastegate is able to move by removing the hose off the inlet side of the turbo & applying up to 30psi air to the actuator. That should cause it to open. You could also plug the tube for a test & see if you get a change when its driven. dont over do this though. The limp mode works by restricting fuel, not opening the wastegate.