CTM are they Good?

[JEEP -EATER]

Originally Posted by maddog

Broke a CV at Menai the first time out, inner wasn't damaged. I suspect it was due to incorrect wheel bearing/stub axle setup. Sorted that out. That one was a Haultech, on the long side.

Broke one at Berridale in December. Was a second hand factory one that I got from a wrecker. Shredded the axle as well. I think it happened because the rig was on a 45 degree side angle, full lock, lockers on and I think one of the Swamper lugs grabbed a control arm.

Broke one last weekend. Climbed up ontop of a massive rock, and on teh way down on the other side, jammed the front left wheel in between the rock I was on and another rock, it let go after 4 or 5 tries to move. That was the Haultech on the short side. Have yet to repair it, but I suspect the axle is also shredded due to me continuing to try and drive to get out of the position I was in.

So 3 CVs and axles since the end of October.

Sounds to me like the Haultech CVs shouldnt be a problem for you. As you said the first one broke because of an incorrect set up and the second one broke because you had the tyre bound up. No one has ever said the Haultech CVs were indestructable.

[JEEP -EATER]

As far as i am aware no one has succeded in breaking a D60 CTM joint. Not sure on the D44. Someone mentioned the OX joint. There are a few reports on pirate of breakages of these.

[FireTruck]

CTM's are the shiznits... as Z said I have had the FireTruck bound up like crazy and they held up (with Yukon CroMo shafts).

As far as the weak link goes... I would prefer to have my weak link somewhere else. If you bust a uni, most times you stuff at least one of the axel shafts as well... and you can easily rotate the shaft ears past each other... which can pop your ball joints out... etc.

I broke a standard D60 uni, but I'm very confident in the CTM's - I would certainly recommend them.

I run a 1350CV driveshaft in the rear (with a 1350 at the diff), and a 1310 CV driveshaft in the front (with a 1350 at the diff)... as Z said, I always figured the 1310 CV would be the weak link - the fuse... ley me tell ya I was very surprised when the output on the Atlas broks and the driveshaft survived! Guess the 1310 CV's are stronger than I gave them credit for!

The Atlas output was not the upgraded heavy duty one... but it will be replaced by a heavy duty one before going in the buggy.

S.

[maddog]

Fixed up the broken bits yesterday. Turns out it wasn't a CV, it sheared the outer axle ,see pics below.

[JEEP -EATER]

Originally Posted by maddog

Fixed up the broken bits yesterday. Turns out it wasn't a CV, it sheared the outer axle ,see pics below

Thats great to see. This is where i would expect the Haultech CVs to fail in a GQ as at the point that has broken the GQ CV is smaller than a Toyota one. I am yet to see a Haultech Treated Hilux/Cruiser CV Break at that point.

Interestingly the GU CV is exactly the same diameter at the same point as the GQ and that is where the GU ones commonly fail as well.

[JEEP -EATER]

Sorry its great for me to see this but i guess its not so good for you.

[maddog]

Yeah I read the article on OL about putting the Hilux Longfields into a GQ diff. It might be something I do down the line to strengthen the whole setup, but I'm just going to have to live with the fact I'll break CVs at TTC in the mean time.

On a side note, I noticed that thread also suggested that treating the CV bell weakened the shaft. Do you think this might be the case here?

I'll be on the hunt for cheap CVs and inners over the next couple of weeks.