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  #22  
Old 18-06-2023
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I am just about to attack a similar problem MY14 diesel with bubbles in header tank, no water in oil and no oil in the water, performed compression test, 5 out of the 6 were 380-400psi, 1 was 320psi, I cannot find any info regards to ideal compressions, manual only mentions maximum difference between cylinders 73psi, I think that is a lot but mine is borderline, so will be removing the head with the low reading.
Good thread guys and great advice...
Very fine bubbles is often the sign of a HG. There is a test you can do to see if its combustion gas in the header tank.
It could also be a air leak into the water pump but its highly unlikely.
If you want a quick cheap & nasty fix, you could try Chemi Weld & water in the cooling system for a few hundred Km.
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  #23  
Old 19-06-2023
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My 2014 had pressure building up in coolant tank and it was head gasket failure. But to make it worse the big end bearings also went because of continued driving. In the end it was cheaper to buy a second hand motor and put it in. I got lucky as I found one with low k's. But because of coved and caprices reaching ridiculous levels, it flowed on to high prices for wrecked cars. I paid $8k for motor and 2k to fit it. Put a big dent in my wallet, but now she runs as sweet as ever. My motor failed because it blew the turbo coolant hose and the previous owner must have let the motor overheat. My car now has all 4 problem hoses properly insulated and of better quality.
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  #24  
Old 19-06-2023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55zed View Post
I am just about to attack a similar problem MY14 diesel with bubbles in header tank, no water in oil and no oil in the water, performed compression test, 5 out of the 6 were 380-400psi, 1 was 320psi, I cannot find any info regards to ideal compressions, manual only mentions maximum difference between cylinders 73psi, I think that is a lot but mine is borderline, so will be removing the head with the low reading.
Good thread guys and great advice...
My book shows 304 -362 psi with a difference of 73 psi between them... which doesn't make a lot of sense to me ...................... QC on the WSM lacking maybe.

Shut down the LP pump, and check via each injector crank for minimum of 8 revoltutions.
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  #25  
Old 19-06-2023
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I just bridged the start relay contacts so I was there to watch the gauge..
My engine appears to have been swapped by a dealer, the oil fill cap has the new spec 5-40W oil printed on the cap, also I cannot find the engine/vin number on the block in the usual spot, just a blank machined spot
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Last edited by 55zed; 19-06-2023 at 07:30 AM.
  #26  
Old 19-06-2023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drover View Post
My book shows 304 -362 psi with a difference of 73 psi between them... which doesn't make a lot of sense to me ...................... QC on the WSM lacking maybe.

Shut down the LP pump, and check via each injector crank for minimum of 8 revoltutions.
I just crank till it stops increasing, saves counting! lol
8 revolutions is only 4 compressions, many engines are still increasing then.
Each to their own I guess!
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  #27  
Old 19-06-2023
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I just crank till it stops increasing, saves counting! lol
8 revolutions is only 4 compressions, many engines are still increasing then.
Each to their own I guess!

Thats what I used to do, turn it over till the needle stopped climbing....... I suppose on these things bells would be going off all over the place........

Engine number drivers side behind alternator ?? and I think its an etched job not the old stamp affair ...... I mentioned I had found the proper location recently on a post, I hope I wrote it down as I can't bluddy remember, I know I thought what a stupid spot.....
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  #28  
Old 19-06-2023
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drover View Post
Thats what I used to do, turn it over till the needle stopped climbing....... I suppose on these things bells would be going off all over the place........

Engine number drivers side behind alternator ?? and I think its an etched job not the old stamp affair ...... I mentioned I had found the proper location recently on a post, I hope I wrote it down as I can't bluddy remember, I know I thought what a stupid spot.....
The VM number is behind the alternator, there is a number at the back on same side near bell housing on a machined flat that matches the last 6 or 8 numbers of the VIN
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