PP 3" front coils on CRD Unlimited

[Yom]

their new shock is just the 5160? Pretty shit hot shock. Firm but controlled.

[Bluey]

I am waiting for a couple more reveiws on it but the first couple i found make them sound pretty good

[SharpWraX]

Hey, I am part way thru a JK build up. Have just fitted a 4.5 PP Tourer lift from Bill at DBOR. Added some serious tough suspension fruit on Bill's reco which I am glad I did. 4 wheel alignment came up great.
All up with custom front shaft about $4500.

Lift has been on my JK 1.5 weeks. Basic specs are - auto, 2 door, CRD with 35MTZ /17's. Arb bar up front and mother of a 12000lb warn pp. No rear bar or tyre carrier yet and don't have rear seat in most of the time as it's just my wifey and I. Front has a 10mm coil spacer.

Started out with the rear of the JK looking a bit like it had a stick up its butt. Back was 40mm ish higher than front. Added 73kg of weight to rear which roughly accounted for my lack of back end load at the moment. Dropped rear by 10-12mm.

Rear is still about 20-25mm higher. Bill has been very patient going thru all this with heaps of measuring and helping sort things out. Great...excellent service. For a first time serious lifter it can all seem pretty complex.

Lifting seems to be a incomplete science. I plan on replacing front 10mm spacer with a 30mm. Will let you know how it goes.

FYI JK handles great with the 73kg in the rear. Nice supple feel. All up with 35's I'm sitting on about 5.5 inches of lift.

Engineer Cert in progress.

[MightyMouse]

Springs are incredibly dependant on the vehicles weight and weight distribution. The flexier the coil the more vehicle dependant the whole thing gets. If you've played with race vehicle tuning you soon appreciate why the sping mounts on coil overs are adjustable... it about the only way to get it perfect no matter how much effort you put into the springs.

Its managable for the OE's as their cars all weigh the same from the production line... however my nissan actually has a substantial "shim" that is used to correct for the drivers weight ( goes in the left for LHD and ...... ) and the parts manual shows a range of slastic spring isolators of different thicknesses used to get things level in different world markets.

Theres also a difference between an inital settling and sagging. I'd never bother adjusting height until i'd driven around for a few weeks.... but if the problem keeps happenening over months then that's sag.

As for lift vs bind...... if you have a 3.5 inch lift fitted that doesn't mean you get 3.5 inches extra up travel for free... you need appropriate bump stops.
On compression the metal has to go somewhere.... you can't expect the extra turns to compress into the same space as the shorter spring so back to bump stops.

The springs are sold as x inches lift meaning they move the vehicle up approx x inches ( weight dependant ) not as x inch lift and x inch extra travel - its just not the same thing.

So IMO.... let things settle for a little while then see whats needed AND get the bump stops right.

Another thing to consider is of course shock travel - lift the vehicle by x inches and you've lost x inches of droop. Thats why longer travel shocks are important - not to give you more overall travel but to make up for the lift. Shock extensions can also be used.