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  #22  
Old 26-05-2011
Yom  Yom is offline
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15mm spanner and multigrips. find your drag link and up near the steering box you will see an adjusting sleeve. undo the nuts a bit and rotate - check steering wheel position.

watch out for the alignment of the bolts though - they can be positioned in such a way that on full suspension compression the clamp bolts can strike the tie rod.
  #23  
Old 26-05-2011
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@Grahame - do you have sagging springs perhaps? The draglink needs adjusting if the front end height has changed due to the trackbar being on an angle. As the springs sag and the front end drops the diff is pushed to the left requiring the draglink to be lengthened to compensate and bring the steering wheel back to the middle (or if you have an adjustable trackbar then you can simply recenter the diff).

As for the requirement for a perfectly centred steering wheel.. Have read this before and still have doubts to be honest. My reasoning - my steering has had slop in it from day one. I have mine centered to the point that on perfectly flat road my wheel is perfectly centre. However, on a normal road that has a few degrees slop to the left my wheel has to be turned at least an inch to the right to drive in a straight line. Likewise on an offcamber stretch of road I need to be an inch to the left to go straight.

When driving on a perfectly flat stretch I can wiggle the wheel an inch either way with no wiggling of the vehicle..... Have questioned the dealer and they tell me its normal!
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  #24  
Old 26-05-2011
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I've got the 2" Mopar springs. On the front they only give me 1" because of the weight of the winch and front bar. I might put the tape measure over it tomorrow, but I don't think this is the case. Although, I've already had the rears replaced under warranty because they sagged lower than standard, so who knows. Before last weekend the wheel was centred perfectly. It's all still nice and tight and no wobbles. I haven't done any hard wheeling in it and never done anything that would bend a steering component. I need to get underneath and have a really good look this weekend. If it's not a quick fix I'll give it to the dealer under warranty. I just need to confirm that it's nothing that I've caused.
  #25  
Old 26-05-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grahame View Post
My steering wheel isn't centred properly and after some of the responses in this thread I'm thinking this is my problem. I've had a look underneath and can't see anything bent or damaged. Since I lack skill and awe, can you tell me how you straighten these things yourself? I assume it's more than just pulling the steering wheel off and putting it back on?
hey mate,

as Yom said but i would first take it for a drive and mark the steering wheel with a texta when you are going in a straight line. (if your steering wheel is out, the mark will be off centre but this is fine). This mark will be your guide when you stop and get out to striaghten your steering wheel.
Make sure this mark is centred when you park your car as this will indicate that your wheels are currently centred even though your steering wheel is not.

Then do as Yom suggested and adjust the sleeve on the draglink until you centre your steering wheel correctly. you simply turn the sleeve the appropiate way (after you loosen off the clamp that is over the sleeve).
Then take it for another drive to make sure you hit the spot and you may need to do it again to fine tune (make sure you retighten the clamp first)
Alot of words for a 10 minute job really.
You do not need to remove your steering wheel as when you rotate the draglink at the sleeve this ill turn your steering wheel whilst leaving tyres where they are

hope that makes some sense
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Last edited by wranglertj; 26-05-2011 at 08:22 PM.
  #26  
Old 29-05-2011
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Well, it turns out my steering wheel was the problem. Many thanks to WranglerTJ and Yom for the how to. I adjusted the drag link sleeve and now the light is out. Cheers fellas.
  #27  
Old 09-05-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yom View Post
for the others with issues:

-ESP light will turn on after a while of driving if your steering wheel is not centered properly. This can technically only be centered if you have an AEV Procal or a dealer scan tool.

-Front wheel speed sensors cannot be contaminated by mud or dirt. If they do get contaminated, the wheel bearings will also need to be replaced as there will be mud and dirt inside the sealed wheel bearing assembly. Only the rears can be affected by mud/dirt ingress.

-ESP activation while under braking when turning left or right van be caused by worn axle ball joints, the sensation is usually the brake pedal pulsating and braking effect only occurring on the wheel opposite to the direction of your turn - I have had this event at speeds as low as 20km/hr.

-No swaybars or extra body roll from a crap lift can and will cause very early ESP activation when cornering, the effects of this will be felt from whole vehicle getting brake application and power being cut.
im getting this at the moment after spending 20 mins tryn to get of of a bog hole,

start car, abs and tcs lights on (hill start assist and cruise cntrl disabled), drop handbrake, start to drive away and the rear brakes lock on and car lurches up from having the back brakes grab (like what can happen if you forget to drop your handbrake) also complete loss of power, if i stop the car and or turn it off/on it generally goes away...then about 15 seconds later the red exclamation mark also pops on....thoughts? would love some insight

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  #28  
Old 09-05-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yom View Post
for the others with issues:

-ESP light will turn on after a while of driving if your steering wheel is not centered properly. This can technically only be centered if you have an AEV Procal or a dealer scan tool.

-Front wheel speed sensors cannot be contaminated by mud or dirt. If they do get contaminated, the wheel bearings will also need to be replaced as there will be mud and dirt inside the sealed wheel bearing assembly. Only the rears can be affected by mud/dirt ingress.

-ESP activation while under braking when turning left or right van be caused by worn axle ball joints, the sensation is usually the brake pedal pulsating and braking effect only occurring on the wheel opposite to the direction of your turn - I have had this event at speeds as low as 20km/hr.

-No swaybars or extra body roll from a crap lift can and will cause very early ESP activation when cornering, the effects of this will be felt from whole vehicle getting brake application and power being cut.
How does the lack of sway bars activate esp when cornering?? are there g force sensors in the body???
cheers JR
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