XJ Mods VSB 14

[alexbrown64]

I would love to try it without both shafts Rich. But this would probably mean getting someone to tow me at 100kph with a rope. Maybe on a backroad somewhere.... Im heading down to see the folks on Wednesday... might take the snatch strap...

I have been trying to eliminate the rumbles and vibrations by swapping drive shafts front to back, turning the motor off (at 100), going slow, fast.
Could be transfer case, carrier bearings, anything.... i have been chasing this for a long time now.

My ZG backing plates and calipers/prop valve are on the way, so i will get the rest of the parts and get the disc brake set up going.
I got some 12mm steel blocks made today to get my ride height perfect.
I am going to play with the castor angle and set it as per Go Jeep to settle the light steering.

I have a big order from Summit Racing to process.. still working out the final order. Sometimes they can be cheaper than Rockauto as they dont have all the bullshit of sending stuff from different warehouses and the postage blowing out. I had a big order of nickers nackers and the post was about $70. I added 2 sets of 4.56 ring and pinion gears and it only added $40 to the post. Those gears weigh heaps... (ive changed my mind for a 3rd time and am going to fit gears, as i reckon the diffs need attention anyway...).

Anyway, when i have got most of the crap sorted, i am taking it in to 4wdUSA up in Perth and leaving it there until it comes back driving like a Rolls Royce...

[alexbrown64]

I think a picture tells a thousand words. So i made a diagram showing the compatibility between greasable and non-greasable 1310 components in the drive shaft.



I have had emails back from various drive shaft builders including Tom Woods, Denny's, Northern Drive Train and Adams. I liked Denny's answer the best as it clearly expains it. They directed me to their website http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c457...aft_parts.html where they have this explanation...

"Now this is very important....

IF your driveshaft was originally designed for the Greasable CV Centering yoke then you MUST always use the Greasable version when replacing the centering yoke. The NON greaseable centering yoke will bind up on the CV Stud Yoke and you will not be able to re-assemble it.

IF your driveshaft was originally designed for the NON Greasable CV centering yoke then you have two choices...one is to use the Greasable and one is to use the NON Greasable. The choice is yours.

If you choose to go greasable then you do not need the rubber dust boot. It will only get in the way and make it impossible to lube it correctly."

So the pic i made up above explains some of the problems you could encounter. Because the width of the non greasable center ball is wider, it will not fit on the newer style stud yoke as it hits the ring that the seal goes over. (the seal itself is not shown. you do not need it for the greasable version, but you can get one). However, that ring does come off. My drive shaft actually chewed it off by itself, including the seal that fits over it.

My problem gets worse. Olivers put after market greasable centering ball yokes on. The castings must be different as they would not allow as much articulation. This caused a lot of noise and vibration. So i took the aftermarket balls off and put the non-greasable balls on. I think i introduced a new problem with the wider balls hitting the seal retaining ring.

Anyway, on the new greasable shafts, i am removing all the unnecessary rings and fitting Spicer center balls. I hope this will sort it all out.

Just be aware if you ever do your own XJ CV front shaft that you could have this problem.

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Lucky i have some time off work to do all this shit...

Anyway, i pulled the trigger on a Summit Racing order. Rockauto is cheaper, but their post works out more when they have to get stuff from 3 or 4 warehouses. They also didnt have the G2 gears. I wanted G2 as thats what 4wdUSA put in all their diffs over here in WA.

Anyway, the standard motor mounts are to replace the Brown Dogs to reduce engine vibes. The tone rings, abs sensors and brake parts are for the rear disc brake project. The Spicer centre balls are to replace the stuff i have in my Olivers drive shafts and of course the G2 4.56 gears to replace the 4.88. I decided i was happy with 4.88 and the 33" tyres, but there is something not set right in the diffs, and perhaps bearing issues.. so they have to pull them anyway. Might as well get the 4.56 which seems best suited to the AW4/4.0/33" tire combo and will hopefully be my daily driver one day.....

So, lots of projects coming up...



Cheers

[Richard buttocks]

I really dont think your constant vibration will be the shaft.

At low speed it wouldnt have enough mass to vibrate unless it had a huge bend in it.

[awg]

I suppose you have checked the circumference of each tyre is the same, with a cloth tape, or piece of string ?

I would also be inclined to swap all 4 tyres, left/right/front/back

annoying I know, but if it make a difference to the vibe (or doesnt)
that is a big clue

an old set of steel wheels with standard size tyres is a useful thing to have

good luck finding someone to tow you at 100kmph !

[alexbrown64]

Your right. I think the low speed/crawling vibes were due to the tyres being pumped up to 40psi and the solid style Brown Dog motor mounts.

One of my original rear shafts had a uni that had some dried out needles and it sounded like a rocket under the car at speed, so the higher speed vibes and noise i am putting down to new drive shaft center balls, bearings or something in diffs and/or bearings in transfer case.

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Originally Posted by awg

I suppose you have checked the circumference of each tyre is the same, with a cloth tape, or piece of string ?

I would also be inclined to swap all 4 tyres, left/right/front/back

annoying I know, but if it make a difference to the vibe (or doesnt)
that is a big clue

an old set of steel wheels with standard size tyres is a useful thing to have

good luck finding someone to tow you at 100kmph !

I took the Jeep in to the tyre place, and they rebalanced and checked all the tyres and gave the thumbs up. I do have a set of 235's AT's on original rims that i might pop back on just for a test drive.

I dropped the transfer case fluid and only a liter came out. Refilled it with about 1.5lt of Dex III. Because the front shaft is off, i was able to put it in 4wd with the NP242 and in gear it will sit stationary and spin the front yolk. It was all nice and quiet.

Also checked the castor today and i am running 3.5* of true castor. A standard XJ runs about 6.5*. I knew it was around about there as i wanted the keep the pinion angle at a minimum. The steering feels great but is a little light on the freeway and does wander a bit.
I will leave the caster adjustment to the boys who are doing the regear. They can track down the vibes and adjust the castor as best as possible.



Cheers,