Thinking of buying a 2005 WK Diesel for the daughter

[Stewatpark]

I recently did an injector leak back test on my 2008 GC with 70,000 Kms on the clock . I didn't have any problems but just wanted a baseline that I could refer back to in the future . After idling the engine for exactly 5 minutes 4 injectors each produced 18.75 ml of diesel , 1 injector produced 16.5 ml and 1 injector produced 25ml .

These amounts include what was in the lines from the injector to the collection containers .

[alexbrown64]

Stew, my 2010 has done 260,000 so i guess the injectors are worn. I think mine were flowing a lot more than that. Thanks for the baseline.

So daughter comes in today and said her 2005 was playing up again. No lights or codes, but did a bit of a limp mode thing on the freeway again. She restarted car and all was good again.

I took it on a 100 kilometer drive. Hit the freeway at 110kph and did a variety of speeds through freeways, suburbs etc.
I had one small stutter at the beginning of the trip. I also had JScan on live date for the ABS and kept an eye on all four wheel speeds. All good.
The stutter was for a second, like it was clearing itself out, then all back to good again. It drove great!

Soooo.. does any one know of a problem that can put the car into limp mode, but not show any codes or check engine lights. It also drives great. Daughter says is usually happens at higher speeds like the freeway and usually after driving for a long time.

This glitch in the Matrix is going to be a tough one. Hope i can get it sorted.

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Hey FarWest,
Yep, its a mystery. But i posted up on a CRD forum and a few people who have had the same symptoms thing they know the answer.

EGR.

Even though i have an EGR delete in the software map, there can be a some sort of communication problem between the physical EGR and MAF or something like that. It wont throw a code, as the EGR has been deleted, but you can still have a problem.

The solution is to replace the physical EGR. Also, recommended to remove the map and see if an EGR related code comes up.

I have removed the EGR and cleaned and checked it and written down the model number. Found the exact same ones out of the UK for around $300.
I wont pull the trigger on one yet, as i may swap the one out from my other Jeep if hers keeps playing up to see if it is that.

So, reinstalled the cleaned up EGR and also cleaned the exhaust pressure switch. I have not removed the software yet.
This gremlin will take a series of steps to work through, but EGR related with no codes due to the remap sounds plausable.

As for the EGR removal, its a bit of a bugger. Only two bolts, but had to use a chisel to prize it up. Then the firewall heat shield stuff stops it from coming right up, so had to cut a small section away. After that, all good.
For reinstallation i lubed the EGR with a special antisieze that is used on glow plugs.



Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Just an update..

I think we may be getting to the root of the problem of her car loosing power and slowing down randomly.
Daughters car finally threw a code.
P0046 boost control circuit.
This is why she is loosing power intermittently.
Her turbo actuator is playing up!
I am still away at the moment, but I have a spare at home and will swap hers out.
Hopefully that will sort her problem for good.
Besides that, her Jeep is running great.

Cheers,

[WilliamAR]

I've been told in another forum to remove the upper plastic housing from the EGR valve and that gets you the length it needs to be removed, i have to do mine someday and i don't plan to cut the firewall.

About the EGR failing even if it was mapped out is.. iffy, in theory you could even disconnect the EGR valve and it should NOT throw any code(in my Amarok the EGR delete works that way, i can unplug the valve with no issues), could it be that it's not sealing properly and allowing exhaust through under load?.
I would not buy a EGR valve for something that's supposed to be deleted, even less at those insane prices(i do have EGR flow codes in mine, but who knows what the previous owner and the hackjob mechanic that supposedly "deleted it" did...)

Originally Posted by alexbrown64

Hey FarWest,
Yep, its a mystery. But i posted up on a CRD forum and a few people who have had the same symptoms thing they know the answer.

EGR.

Even though i have an EGR delete in the software map, there can be a some sort of communication problem between the physical EGR and MAF or something like that. It wont throw a code, as the EGR has been deleted, but you can still have a problem.

The solution is to replace the physical EGR. Also, recommended to remove the map and see if an EGR related code comes up.

I have removed the EGR and cleaned and checked it and written down the model number. Found the exact same ones out of the UK for around $300.
I wont pull the trigger on one yet, as i may swap the one out from my other Jeep if hers keeps playing up to see if it is that.

So, reinstalled the cleaned up EGR and also cleaned the exhaust pressure switch. I have not removed the software yet.
This gremlin will take a series of steps to work through, but EGR related with no codes due to the remap sounds plausable.

As for the EGR removal, its a bit of a bugger. Only two bolts, but had to use a chisel to prize it up. Then the firewall heat shield stuff stops it from coming right up, so had to cut a small section away. After that, all good.
For reinstallation i lubed the EGR with a special antisieze that is used on glow plugs.


Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Hey Will,

The EGR unit looked pretty sealed to me. I couldn’t see any cover that pops off and gives clearance.
Anyway, no need to cut firewall..you just remove the insulation and that gives the clearance.

Yep, if you unplug the EGR, you get some sort of lost communication with EGR code.

None of this really matters now, as my daughters car has finally thrown a code in relation to her loosing power, slowing down etc.. It’s the turbo actuator. P0046. She has cleared it, and the code keeps popping back up as active now. So, should be an easy swap out when I am home and hopefully that’s the last of her gremlins.

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Well, good timing really.

I got home from last night from working offshore for two weeks Even managed to get Covid, isolate and recover in that time. Daughter said the Jeep is getting really hard to drive as it keeps jerking and slowing down etc.
She cant clear the P0046 code anymore, as it just comes straight back up.

Today, she had to borrow my WH to go do her pizza deliveries. That was the perfect time i needed to get stuck into her WH and swap out the turbo actuator.

Its only 3 x 10mm bolts and an E clip, but you also have to remove the engine cover and turbo heat shield.

I got it down to 1 hour and 15 minutes.

The one that came out of her car was the G-001. I had a good G-001 original to put back in her car. (it the one out of my 2010, as i wanted to trial a
Chinese actuator in my car.)

Anyway, i cleared her code and took it for a test drive. Drove great with no problems. Lots of power and no hiccups. Got home and rechecked the codes. No codes appeared, so sounds like we have sorted it out.

Years ago they may of been a 4-6000 dollar fix... now it can be done for next to nothing. Gotta love the ol' WH.



Cheers,