Thinking of buying a 2005 WK Diesel for the daughter

[alexbrown64]

Good luck with the Kess 5oclock. Its cheap enough and there are some good tunes around that can be added and experimented with.
Yes, a small o'ring can ruin the day.. Can you add a link to the ones you got.
Interesting with the uni-joints. Hope it works. I actually climbed under my Jeep the other day to check the rear uni's and all still good, so we know the staked rear drive shaft can be rebuilt if needed.

Anyway, i parked the two WH's side by side this morning and got to work.



I removed both actuators as i was doing the swap, but also i wanted to feel the turbo vanes move on both cars so i could see if there was any difference...
The lever is on the side of turbo and the actuator connects to it. Once the actuators were removed, i could have a feel..



My 2010 was really loose. This is how they should be. The daughters car was sticky when i pulled the lever right up. In fact, the lever would stick up in that position and stay there. Thats not too good, as it means the vanes are a little sticky. This may be enough to upset the delicate balance of the electronic actuator. Most of the action was very loose and smooth, just not the last part.
So... i started off spraying the shaft that the lever is attached to and goes into the turbo with lots of WD40. I then went to Super Crap and bought some snake oil. I sprayed about 1/8th of the bottle into the intake of the turbo while the car was running and i continually worked the rod up and down. I put the rest of the contents into the fuel tank as written on the instructions.



After working the rod intermittently for about an hour it really did free up. I couldn't believe it. The 2005 felt just as loose as the 2010.
Happy with the result, i swapped the actuators over.
So, her 2005 now has the new Chinese G-001 and my 2010 has its original G-001 actuator back in.

Test drive time. Her 2005 started and ran great. It had a stored P0046 actuator code which i cleared. On the first test, i gave her car shit and the code popped back up. Once cleared, it didn't come back up in two more test drives.
Bit early to tell, but hopefully the cars computer adapts to the new actuator and everything settles in.
With a new actuator and freed up vanes, i am hoping all will be well.

I had to replace the diesel return line o'ring on mine. The diesel leak down kit had a bunch of o'rings on all its fittings, so one of those looked perfect. It was, and a test drive revealed no leaks and also my old G-001 actuator running well. No codes popped up. I may have to get a few sets of proper return line o'rings like 5'oclock did, as something so simple can be a show stopper on a long trip.

So, i guess a bit of time will tell if i have the problem licked. If it comes back then i will be a bit stumped.

Will keep you all posted.

Cheers,

[5oclock]

runautoparts.com.au/topran-fuel-injector-o-ring-114-580-6pack-114-580-6pcs

Testing testing,,,first time I have attempted a link so not too sure if it will be a goer.
By the way I wasnt in anyway insinuating that the way you changed out the unijoints was not a good way, just if these joints I got were a good fit with minimal stuffing around they might be an alternative. Will know as soon as I get a chance to pull the drive shaft and do some measuring etc.
Good job on the turbo!! Hope its the solution.
So these o-rings look a different colour to the original bosch o-rings, but the mob who is supplying them is a euro car parts supplier. I just happened to buy Mann oil and fuel filters off them just the other day---should have got the o-rings then but forgot, so new order today.
PS, just tested the link and it worked for me---who said you cant teach an old dog new tricks!
The hard bit will be remembering how to do it next time.

[alexbrown64]

5o'clock.. those orings are the exact size. Should be a direct fit.
No worries on the drive shaft. I was trying to find some uni joints that had the inner circlip. The way i did it worked, but was a pain, so im hoping the uni's you have found are a better option.

Daughter going out to do pizza delivery tonight, so touch wood it all goes good.

Hope you KESS adventures work out. You will have to let us know how you go..
Im running Windows 7 Professional 64 bit on my old Dell laptop and it went well.

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Thanks Farwest.
She has RAC road side assist haha.. so I can still enjoy a beer without having to go into rescue mode.
She has been driving 2 days now without incident, so all good so far.

Cheers,

[Mace1]

Originally Posted by alexbrown64

Thanks Farwest.
I can still enjoy a beer without having to go into rescue mode.


Cheers,

What page in the Owners Manual has the rescue mode info? Asking for a freind....

[alexbrown64]

The unwritten chapter should include setting yourself up with an OBD2 dongle and JScan app.
The daughter is well trained in its use now. As soon as the Jeep farts, she checks for codes, takes a screen shot and sends it through to me.
I then Google the problem and look for solutions.

A few years ago this wasn’t possible and it must of been tough when everyone was at the mercy of the dealer and suffering limp mode in remote areas. Unacceptable that Jeep put owners in that situation.

Now, it’s much easier to diagnose problems, get out of limp mode, get yourself home and get repairs done due to apps, google and YouTube.

I’ve found that most of the problems seem to be electronic. Some modules need replacing, some need cleaning but all need attention. We have had so many U codes come up, which are communication codes. A can of Jcar electronics cleaner and lubricant does wonders on all the various connectors.

Be prepared to swap out ABS speed sensors and turbo actuator modules. Be prepared to use the swirl flap resistor trick. Be prepared to unplug and clean diff, gearbox, abs, transfer case, shift module and all other computers on the car. Be prepared to swap out the glow plug module.

Be prepared to spend lots of money in tow and mechanical fees if you are not prepared to set up the JScan app, monitor codes and do some basic repairs.

The WH is coming up for 17 years old and they had problems from nearly new with “service 4wd” warnings due to software upgrades, faulty alternators due to spilt oil and faulty turbos due to heat damaged actuators.

Not to mention the common clunk from worn front diff bushings and the worn rear rzeppa cv joint on the front drive shaft.

Put all these things in the unwritten chapter and your good to go haha...

[Brit30-06]

Originally Posted by Stewatpark

www,idparts.com are selling what appear to be genuine Hella turbo actuators - USA$ 310 .
2007 , 2008 Grand Cherokee , engine parts . turbo .

Hi.
Just beware of idparts. They have a good inventory of parts but they will have your pants down with shipping. They wanted $103 U.S. to send me 4 O rings to UK.