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  #330  
Old 23-04-2022
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Yep, they are super expensive on shipping.
The trick is to have a US shipping address.
I use ComGateway. Get a bunch of parts sent there from all different places in the US.
They will then consolidate all the packages into one and send them to you much cheaper.
I had 30 packages consolidated from all over America a few months back. Mostly motorcycle parts. Would of cost about $900 in shipping, but I got it all sent for about $150.

Cheers,
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  #331  
Old 23-04-2022
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Hi Alex.
I emailed idparts asking if i could send my O rings to a mate in Texas. They said they could not accept a foreign payment card for a domestic purchase. I would have to get my mate in Texas to buy them and then he would have to post to me.
How does that work with ComGateway?

Thanks.
  #332  
Old 23-04-2022
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Hey Brit.
I use PayPal for everything.
If you have a mate in Texas, just buy stuff with PayPal on ID parts and give them your mates address. Or, send to the com gateway address that is given to you.
Com gateway accepts PayPal too. But here’s the tip...get a few bits and pieces together, as it’s a lot cheaper.

Cheers,
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  #333  
Old 24-04-2022
WilliamAR  WilliamAR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brit30-06 View Post
Hi Alex.
I emailed idparts asking if i could send my O rings to a mate in Texas. They said they could not accept a foreign payment card for a domestic purchase. I would have to get my mate in Texas to buy them and then he would have to post to me.
How does that work with ComGateway?

Thanks.
that's malarkey!, i bought my parts from idparts a couple monthhs ago using my very foreign CC and had them shipped to a freight forward/collector service in the US as well, zero issues.
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  #334  
Old 25-04-2022
Brit30-06  Brit30-06 is offline
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Hi William.
Here is a cut and paste from the email i received when i asked if i could pay with my card and have the parts sent to Texas. Go figure.

You can check out online with PayPal, but we can not process cards based outside of the US.

I do not have a paypal account. I have sorted it though. My O ring seal kit is being forwarded by my mate in America.
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  #335  
Old 06-05-2022
WilliamAR  WilliamAR is offline
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Quick dumb question:
¿should the differentials be the LSD ones?, ¿the C200FE/C213RE?, but in your photos i don't see any solenoid or clutch pack in them, in my jeep i'm getting sporadic differential actuator errors(they stopped but it was there).
Or is the quadra-drive II GC limited not equipped with the ELSD? (vari-lok?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexbrown64 View Post
Haha Brit, working on these Jeeps is really not that hard. There is already loads of info on the net and my work background means i will basically have a go at anything. Also, yes that red dust is from the bush. I pressure washed under the rear of the car a few days ago to try and get rid of it. It has been everywhere, including in the car.. but slowly getting super clean now. This 2010 is an ex-country car.
FarWest, my ex-wife said "its me or the Jeeps".

Anyway, thought i would update now, as i needed a coffee after wrestling with the diff this morning.
Forget the rattle gun idea. I shortened the hose down to 3 ft and had the PSI cranked up to 100 PSI and the impact gun is supposed to be good to 500nm. It would not tighten up/crush the crush washer at all.

OK... this is what we are aiming for.. Its simple! Just crush the crush washer and get the pinion so that it rotates with the force of 20-35 in/lb
.....

Cheers,
  #336  
Old 06-05-2022
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Good question.
In Australia, the WH came out in 2005 and the CRD came standard with Quadradrive II. The daughters WH is 2005. Somewhere around 2007/08 it became an option. My WH is 2010 and only had the Quadratrac II.

So.. you may see pics of both in the thread, as i commonly discuss both cars, but they do have their differences.

My daughter was getting sporadic differential errors and a few weird clunks etc.
I solved all of the problems through several ways. I pulled the plugs on the diffs and transfer case and sprayed them several times with a special electrical cleaner/lubricant. I then did every plug i could find.. the few under the rear seat, the one to the auto transmission, the ABS module and main computer. These seems to have stopped all our U codes completely.

Also, kept making sure all the ABS sensors to all 4 wheels were working properly. Can do this with Jscan in live data while driving.

Touch wood, we have had no more problems William. It seems that tiny loss of communication problems can wreak havoc on these cars. In fact, they are a solid bit of kit, but a dirty or faulty module or sensor will cripple these cars. Main culprits seem to be ABS sensors and Turbo Actuator modules.

Cheers,
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