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  #29  
Old 04-05-2022
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Originally Posted by drover View Post
Changing the shocks without changing the springs is the problem I reckon, the soft ride springs are rubbish at load, I looked at air bags but once I tossed the springs found things were better though I would still like some, as for WDH it does depend on the load, I would love to have some scales to just see what sort of weight movements I get with or without WDH and some other ideas, pity I'm not at my old place as I could rattle to my old work and use the weighbridge ............... Might not like what I see though....
Wandering arse end and stuff is not just suspension either, the tugs tyres if your towing over 2.5t then running a "P" rated tyre isn't great for wear or setting the right pressure as often you are running near max psi, much prefer "LT" tyres then the ideal psi is not on the limit, they also wear better same applies to the van... only use the tyre placard as a start point then adjust your pressure so its about 4-6 psi more than cold. Placard on Jeep says 33 psi, thats way too low on mine, tyres run hot, 38 psi seems like the sweet spot.

You are more than likely correct drover, in that to just change the shocks but leave the original springs would not be good being the original springs and shocks would work in unison to carry any additional load.

As I wrote, i cannot see how having the original Nivomats and original springs replaced with an aftermarket HD set of springs and shocks with air bags would have any effect towing capacity...the reality is no one is going to give any other opinion other than what the manufacturer states.

Yeah, I also agree with your comment about "P" rated tyres. I run LT rated tyres...as we probably all do...All Terrains at the moment. I do feel the rears a bit skitty in the wet, so for me having the whole weight of the tow hitch on the rear gives me some comfort rather than leveraging some of that weight off the drive on to the steer. (though a 4wd doesn't have a drive and steer does it as drive is at the front axle and back...old habits...)
And being I will be fitting MT's soon keeping some weight on the drive will be critical imo for safety.

I am pretty mindful of tyre pressures too. But my take is that by running higher pressures won't help being the effect is to in fact give a smaller contact patch as the centre will balloon, on top of a harsher ride and excessive tyre heat build up.
To run lower than normal pressures may cause the tread to even close up a bit when in contact with the road and the tyres may be even less grippy in fact. So finding the correct tyre pressures are critical. The old 4psi gain from cold to hot is the real test of correct pressures.

In my case I reckon the current "skittiness" I feel may even have something to do with the shoulders losing their edge due to rotating tyres X fashion which sees them run in reverse when rotated. I am only doing that to even out the wear rather than have the typical scalloping which inevitably happens with the more aggressive tread patterns if not rotated...

My van still has the original All Terrains on it, I can't recall whether they are LT's or not, but I imagine they are. (I keep the van at a mates place so can't have a look), but I do want to change them as well in the next 12 months as they have had the 4th birthday...even though tread depth and general condition look good.
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Last edited by Jeeper6; 04-05-2022 at 07:38 AM.
  #30  
Old 04-05-2022
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Same song for sure .............. my tyre psi sweet spot for years has been 4-6psi above cold with this Jeep that is 38psi all round and when I'm towing my 2.8t ? rig around the front stay at 38 and I up the drives to 44 psi, van runs 265 75R16 rubber Geolanders at 47 psi, everything stays in place, van tucks in behind and stays put rain, hail or shine even when my ring gear is eating the sheepskin cover it all stays put....

Of course I adjust the psi when I'm down in the snow country or in the desert temps, I don't drop pressures in the hot country as some suggest, that just makes the tyre run even hotter, I keep within the 4-6 psi above cold temp... 1psi for every 10 degs above or below your baseline cold temp is all thats needed.....

Vans should have a mild AT pattern, longer wear, better wet grip, rugged tread for lazy axle is all about bling, they don't achieve anything else... I wouldn't tow a van with MT's fitted............. Old Boss fitted my truck out with nice chunky gear for the paddocks, I was happy until I belted down the highway loaded up, scared the crap out of me, got shot of them quickly as they had a high wear rate, great in paddock but the odd push by a tractor was more appealing than the drive wanting to head off somewhere else.
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  #31  
Old 04-05-2022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drover View Post
Wandering arse end and stuff is not just suspension either, the tugs tyres if your towing over 2.5t then running a "P" rated tyre isn't great for wear or setting the right pressure as often you are running near max psi, much prefer "LT" tyres then the ideal psi is not on the limit, they also wear better same applies to the van... only use the tyre placard as a start point then adjust your pressure so its about 4-6 psi more than cold. Placard on Jeep says 33 psi, thats way too low on mine, tyres run hot, 38 psi seems like the sweet spot.
Passenger tyres (p) on Vans or even trailers are a no,no. more so when they are loaded, Light Truck (LT) are the go, they cost no more and are made to carry a load. They actually stand up in the sidewall. Most placards on vans these day always stipulate 185/75 or 195/75 LT tyres. Passenger tyres are too soft in the sidewall and flex too much, with excessive flex comes heat and that contributes to side wall failure/ blowout, kiss your van insurance good bye if you ever have a roll over and its caused by one of the van tyres blowing out.

Same Drover I find 40psi front & 38psi rear good
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