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  #29  
Old 11-08-2023
BrokenJeep  BrokenJeep is offline
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Thanks for your response layback40. Always appreciate your help mate. Owe you a beer or 10 for your help.

I did try throwing 30psi at the wastegate actuator but I could not hear it open nor could I physically see it. Hard to confirm. Should it make a squeeky noise when it opens?
If it doesn't appear to be the WG actuator then do you think it could be the infamous injector #1? Resistance being 106.5 ohms and all - slightly on the high side.
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Old 11-08-2023
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Originally Posted by tom.c.coogan View Post
Thanks for your response layback40. Always appreciate your help mate. Owe you a beer or 10 for your help.

I did try throwing 30psi at the wastegate actuator but I could not hear it open nor could I physically see it. Hard to confirm. Should it make a squeeky noise when it opens?
If it doesn't appear to be the WG actuator then do you think it could be the infamous injector #1? Resistance being 106.5 ohms and all - slightly on the high side.
May not make any noise. If you cant see the actuator shaft move, you may be able to put your finger on the rod & feel it move. If the actuator was broken, you would hear the air leak. They tend to fail closed.
106 ohms is good. When they fail normally you see open circuit.
I am wondering if the throttle position sender has an issue.
I have never had that issue.
Another possibility is that the IP has jammed inside. Was it you that had issues with the lid of the IP? If so may be worth a look.
Does it run normal below 2k rpm?
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  #31  
Old 12-08-2023
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Yes that was me.
I do have a spare IP that I use purely for parts and could try replace the lid.
It does operate fine, boost comes on good until 2000rpm then engine loses approx 80% power. Revs up fine on the spot.
Should it not throw a code once Engine has limped?
I will be checking the crank shaft sensor and try to get my finger on WG actuator shaft.
  #32  
Old 12-08-2023
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Originally Posted by tom.c.coogan View Post
Yes that was me.
I do have a spare IP that I use purely for parts and could try replace the lid.
It does operate fine, boost comes on good until 2000rpm then engine loses approx 80% power. Revs up fine on the spot.
Should it not throw a code once Engine has limped?
I will be checking the crank shaft sensor and try to get my finger on WG actuator shaft.
Have you tried disconnecting the #1 injector sensor & see if it runs the same? If so its a problem with the sensor or wiring to it.
I assume at some stage you have disconnected the battery for a few minutes & connected the + & - leads together with the ignition on to reset everything.
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Old 12-08-2023
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So disconnect the #1 Injector electrical plug and watch for performance issues under 2000rpm? What should it run like? Miss fire? Less response?

Yes I have tried that too.
Cheers LB. I will also give that a go
  #34  
Old 13-08-2023
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Just disconnect #1 sensor. If there is no change to the performance, its probably sensor issues. If there is a change, its something else.
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  #35  
Old 20-08-2023
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So a week has gone by without starting it. Went to turn the key and it took ages to start. Finally fired up and ran OK but same limp issues still persisting. Starts fine now but still limps over 2000rpm. Disconnected the #1 Injector 2pin electrical plug and made no difference.
Smokes more than normal - white/grey
Does that sound like an air leak to you? Even after bleeding- still limping.
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Last edited by BrokenJeep; 20-08-2023 at 08:09 PM.
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