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  #29  
Old 21-10-2015
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rainman  rainman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruggz351 View Post
So, rainman, what's the deal with rmi25?
Do you use it?
I'm interested if only for the safety aspect. Being non toxic.

Sent from my FRED
Yes I'm using it, the radator bloke recommended it. Antifreeze is not that great at transferring heat. At 30% it increases boiling point at 13psi fron 121 to 128*c.
Figured trading a slightly higher boiling point for better heat transfer.
Also I kind of expected to be pulling the cooling system apart, liked the non toxic, I have a dog and 3 small kids, antifreeze not only is toxic but tastes sweet.
So with rmi no containers of toxic sweet liquid around.
I had no brown discoluration form after a week or two, which is common with rmi 25 apparently, but with a new water pump a 6 month old brand new engine, and a just cleaned radator, would have been very surprised if it did.
I like how you can not put to much in.- if in doubt for some reason chuck in a bit more. It comes in a small bottle, you mix it up at 12.5ml/ litre. One 250ml bottle can make up 20l.
My radator guy charges $32 per bottle. - maybe $35? .
As I said it is rock solid temp wise, except pulling 1.8 ton trailers up ranges on hot days.
Ordered a high flow water pump. As per gojeep. Will see how that goes.
Regards,
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  #30  
Old 21-10-2015
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Originally Posted by LuluBelle View Post
I was down 500ml of coolant surely that couldn't send the temps up so much
500ml from where, the radiator or the overflow bottle. If the overflow system is faulty and the system is not holding pressure it will boil at 100*. You can light a fire under the car and the temp wont go any higher than 100*, not enough to trip the electric fan at 105*.
An easy way to check it is to wait until the car is dead cold and remove the rad cap. If the rad cap and overflow system is OK the coolant will be full to the brim.
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  #31  
Old 21-10-2015
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Richard buttocks..............
rad is OEM ! yr old 1500 klm
so is thermostat and bottom rad hose
water pump is 2.5 yrs old and say 4000 klm
Billnick yes I needed about 500 ml of ElcheapO coolant my 96 has a open cooling system prob 250 in the rad and 250 in the expansion bottle measured dead cold I have burped the system with the heater on many times to be sure

even though I boiled the Xj a few times last year when number 2 thermostat shit itself...............the oil is oily looking not condensed milk looking so its not the head PHew!
I drove it around town today and the temps were normal?
I checked the clutch fan and the electric fan air con regulator test then go hot till fan comes on all good ?
putting my hand on the gas converter and hoses they were hot like all the rad hoses so nothing there the converter is located drivers side wheel well near plugs 5 and 4
looked at this today waterless coolant
http://liquidintelligence.com.au/pro...erless-coolant
I might try it I gotta do something
going to longreach on the 04/11 so I will monitor the temps and post here for the next 2 weeks I will keep a eye on temps around town
wikchi where did you get your air scoops from
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  #32  
Old 21-10-2015
oldon  oldon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainman View Post
http://www.rmi25.com

Fibres- for want of a better word. Flocks I suppose is what they are called.


Ausi, distributor
http://www.costeffective.com.au/Prod...stem-treatment

Check yr thermostat is working properly?
Otherwise I would be inclined to be looking at water pump and rad.
I had zero overheat probs till I changed out the coolent. And got that flocking problem. Highway speeds overheating after no probs for years, months after a coolent change, well that was my story.
Good luck with it.
Sounds like good stuff, thanks rainman.
  #33  
Old 21-10-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuluBelle View Post
Richard buttocks..............
rad is OEM ! yr old 1500 klm
so is thermostat and bottom rad hose
water pump is 2.5 yrs old and say 4000 klm
Billnick yes I needed about 500 ml of ElcheapO coolant my 96 has a open cooling system prob 250 in the rad and 250 in the expansion bottle measured dead cold I have burped the system with the heater on many times to be sure

even though I boiled the Xj a few times last year when number 2 thermostat shit itself...............the oil is oily looking not condensed milk looking so its not the head PHew!
I drove it around town today and the temps were normal?
I checked the clutch fan and the electric fan air con regulator test then go hot till fan comes on all good ?
putting my hand on the gas converter and hoses they were hot like all the rad hoses so nothing there the converter is located drivers side wheel well near plugs 5 and 4
looked at this today waterless coolant
http://liquidintelligence.com.au/pro...erless-coolant
I might try it I gotta do something
going to longreach on the 04/11 so I will monitor the temps and post here for the next 2 weeks I will keep a eye on temps around town
wikchi where did you get your air scoops from
My experience of waterless coolant from my motor sport days is "It's awesome if you don't loose any. Boiling point, heat transfer and lack of expansion is exceptional. Air in the system is always bad. Many other brands to choose from.
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  #34  
Old 22-10-2015
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[QUOTE=
Billnick my 96 has a open cooling system [/QUOTE]

Define 'open cooling system'. Are you saying your radiator system is not holding pressure? If so, therein lies the problem. As the engine heats up and the coolant expands creating pressure, the coolant and any trapped air bypasses the radiator cap and feeds into the overflow bottle. When it cools down the coolant is sucked back into the system ensuring the system is full at all times. Left to itself the system will self burp over time.
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'04 KJ 2.4 L petrol(sold)
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Last edited by Billnick; 22-10-2015 at 08:47 AM.
  #35  
Old 22-10-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billnick View Post
Define 'open cooling system'. Are you saying your radiator system is not holding pressure? If so, therein lies the problem. As the engine heats up and the coolant expands creating pressure, the coolant and any trapped air bypasses the radiator cap and feeds into the overflow bottle. When it cools down the coolant is sucked back into the system ensuring the system is full at all times. Left to itself the system will self burp over time.
with a radiator cap the closed systems on earlier models had no rad cap the system was pressurized that's what they called them a open system and the closed system
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