XJ Mods VSB 14

[awg]

Originally Posted by alexbrown64

There is a YouTube video of a guy doing exactly that Tony. He uses WD40, but it is only a short term solution. Mine had some rust and gunk on it that really needed cleaning off.
I would say to put some oil or WD40 down there short term, then strip and clean/grease it medium term, and if the bush is worn, a replacement distributor is cheap enough.
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thanks for that video..mine doesnt squeek..I was thinking regular preventative maintenance

from the technical info linked, it seems the self-oiling capacity of the bush may get affected by ingress of tiny grit particles over the years ?

my assumption is an annual oiling may mean the bush is able to clean and absorb enough oil to function as required

Jaguar V12 dizzy requires a specific oiling maintenance procedure

be a good excuse for me to at least look inside my cap etc
I tend not to change cap, rotor or wires while they are functioning,
given "new" parts can be of suspect quality

I do have an entire spare dizzy, and carry a spare rotor in my in-car spares kit

[oldon]

I read on a yank jeep site of a bloke putting a grease nipple on a 2005 tj 4 litre coil pack motor. He said there was some change in the way they built the shaft for the coil pack motors and no oil could get to the bush, so it started squeaking after a while. Said he gave it 1 pump of grease when he thought of it and no more squeaks. Maybe it would work on earlier distributor motors.

[alexbrown64]

A lot of good ideas being thrown around with oiling, grease nipples and replacement bushes for the distributors.
When i get the new one, i may strip it and take more photos and measurements and also see if it is viable to put a grease nipple in above the oil seal. Below the oil seal is fine, as it gets its lubrication and i think it lasts forever, but above it is the problem, and hence why everyone needs to replace their distributors eventually from dried out and worn out upper bushes.

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Big cyclone off the coast of West Australia, so i was sent home from work. I can finally get a few projects done around the house. Don't have to do any on the Jeep, as i am happy where i am at the moment.

Anyway, Rockauto delivered the rest of my sensors, so i thought i would sort them out and get them ready for replacement/storage.

Pic below showing most of the sensors i know of. There are a few more hidden around the place, but these ones will give you the most grief. NTK seems to be a well respected quality brand. Standard are just a good all round replacement. If your really fussy, find some Mopar replacements but be prepared to pay the price. Don't go with the no name Chinese parts. Some may be OK, but some are dodgy.



OK, on the back row from left we have the O2 sensor, Cam position Sensor and MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure).
On the front row from left we have the TPS (Throttle position sensor), CPS (Crank position sensor), and front temp sensor (not the one for the temp gauge).

These ones are for my 1995 4.0 XJ (pre-update). Yours might be a bit different based on year and engine.

The O2 sensor, MAP sensor and front temp sensor get imputs on air pressure, coolant temp and exhaust temperatures and will set fuel/air mix and all that sort of stuff. My Jeep is running well, but using heaps of juice. After my regear i will start taking measurements and start replacing these 3 sensors. I will keep the ones i take off as spares, as i know they work, but perhaps not working efficiently in regard to giving my engine the best readings.

The TPS, CPS and Cam sensor provide inputs on timing etc. If one of these is playing up, guaranteed you can usually trace it to one of these three. My Cam sensor just went out like a light switch a few weeks ago. Took 5 minutes to pop the new spare in and the Jeep fired straight up. I believe that if any of these sensors has packed up, then you should get a code in the onboard diagnostics. Important to know how to read your codes in the OBD1 and OBD2 systems.

If you get stranded on the side of the road or track, its easy to check codes, find fault and swap one of these bad boys out. Keep the tools needed in the truck along with other spares such as fan belt, distributor cap/rotor button/ht leads... and any other stuff you can think off.

Happy XJ Jeeping and don't let a minor sensor issue get you stuck....



Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Well, the old girl is booked into 4wd USA to get a regear from 4.88 to 4.56. They are also going to look at offset ball joints to cure the left hand pull most of the rhd xj's have. Will report back on results. Almost my daily driver now...

Cheers,

[oldon]

On Gojeep's site he says the wheelbase is 10mm shorter on the left side to counter the camber of the road in America. They didn't change it for aus. I tried to measure mine once but failed, could have been the rum & coke. Gojeep welded the frame mount holes for top & bottom arms & redrilled the holes.

[alexbrown64]

Originally Posted by oldon

On Gojeep's site he says the wheelbase is 10mm shorter on the left side to counter the camber of the road in America. They didn't change it for aus. I tried to measure mine once but failed, could have been the rum & coke. Gojeep welded the frame mount holes for top & bottom arms & redrilled the holes.

I’ve been through all that Oldon. I have adjustable control arms top and bottom, and played with that adjustment to no real avail. I’ll get it sorted properly once and for all. Determined to make this truck my daily all purpose vehicle. Almost ironed out 10 years of bugs and understand the old girl much better these days..

But.....I can see 10 years of XJ projects still in front of me to keep her running well and constantly improving her.

Cheers,