WG CRD dumps oil why - Page 6 - AUSJEEPOFFROAD.COM Jeep News Australia and New Zealand

Grandhaze · #36 19-12-2011

Photo of the old cooler attached.

It has a build date of August 2004 so was the original. Mine only leaked a cup a week so when i tested it no air bubbles etc. Possibly gets worst when hot and up to 60 psi. Main thing: No oil in water now.

Paul

Grandhaze · #37 19-12-2011

Photo of the new cooler in place. Tight fit. Were later models easier to work on? Saw a photo of this one in a winabago and the inlet was well out the way.
Paul

fester · #38 19-12-2011

It is fiddly to get at Paul but not that bad. I took the intercooler and radiator hoses off and that other coolant hose over the top. Also removed batteries and battery tray. With a bit of arm contorting it's not too bad. Keep an eye on it if you keep the car, you will see my engine was on it's third cooler (2 in just under 12 months) and another guy on here has done 3 in 4 years from memory.

Grandhaze · #39 20-12-2011

Fiddly wasnt the word the mechanic used... but now he's done it he will do them again. We took out battery holder etc.
Was yoiur manifold in the same place as mine?

I now have a new radiator to put in. What was the link to how to do this wihout removing ac inetcooler? Nice touch with the oil powered fan??? why to save battery etc
Paul

fester · #40 22-12-2011

Paul my manifold would be exactly the same as yours. I've not read any differences anywehere for that engine in the WJ.

Link to radiator removal is here http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13245055539331

Not sure on the thoughts of the fan. I guess maybe less drain than direct drive and more efficient than electric alone. It's argued that electric does not pull as much air as engine driven but there are designs that prove that doen right electric is good eg Ford twin fans. Maybe it just seemed like a good idea at the time.

Timely I read that thred too as it might be easier to pull the rad to flush it properly than stuffing about trying to do it in the car given a lot of the front is pulled off already to do the oil cooler thing. Might even pull the intercooler and flush it out, see how much oil is sitting in it.

Grandhaze · #41 22-12-2011

That must have been a MB winnabago special.

I got the fan assembly out this morning with help from a broom handle to lever stuff out the way. I disconnected the oil pipes at the seering box and at the main pump so everything came out. Lucky I had a set of those offset pipe spanner ends for the 3/8 sockets. Turning the fan was fun. It pumped oil onto the shed floor... Still tempted to leave it out. and go a/m electric.

I went to that site which is for petrol but looks same at mine ie it needs the same approach ie pull front of car. I remember doing my commodore two years ago. two plastic clips two hoses and lift out.....

Now I will try to do it without disconnecting the AC.

I flushed my system out using citrus degreaser and lots of water into top hose and left it going. Now clear water only so coolant iabout to go in. Mechanic said wrong or weak coolant causes most of the radiator and oil cooler problems.

Paul

Grandhaze · #42 24-12-2011

Today after 5 hours I removed the radiator on the WJ CDR and put the new one in without taking the intercooler out nor disconnecting the ac.
I took plenty photos and will post soon. Basically the radiator has metal sideplates. I took out the 8 bolts , two top and two bottom each side and then the two bolts holding the passenger side metal side plate to the intercooler frame. This then lets the radiator metal plate to be taken out and the radiator can be moved to that side and pulled back two inches then it all comes out upwards. Instalation is the reverse. However to get to this stage two steps are necessary. Remove grill bumper headlights and undo the two bolts that hold the rubber mounts for the intercooler and raise it about 2inches and move it forward one to two inches. Next remove the fan four screws and two hydraulic pipes one on steering box and one on the pump. Disconnect the electric link and the low pressure feed from the power steering header tank. The fan can now be lifted straight up and the space will let the new one in easily.
The metal plate on the drivers side stay in and the new radiator bolts to it.
My car was missing a lower rubber mount so I fabricated one. These are necessary bec the whole assembly of the four coolers rest on these two mounts with the front side mounts of the intercooler.
After a spin around the neighbourhood everything works fine. Just need to pay for that $1700 radiator being a genuine part.
Paul