KK: In Dad's memory

[Gojeep]

Because I wanted 1/2" less than the 2-2.5" suspension you could buy for my model to keep it 100% legal in my state, I specified coils all around for the earlier KJ which was around 200kg/440lb lighter. The extra weight of the KK should drop the height by around 1/2". One main difference though is that the rear springs are different. Can see how much bigger the top of the KJ yellow coil is.


I hunted around the wrecking yard and found these top strut, or coil, mounts in the dirt. Found three of them spread around the 4wd section but none belonged to the vehicles where they were. This fitted the coil perfectly.


It was easier the turn the coil upside down and fit the larger end of the coil to the axle perch. The centre hole was too small to fit over the bump strike pad though.


Good excuse to use the new lathe and hog out the centre. Can also cut it out with a jigsaw if needed.


Dropped over perfectly. Fully reversible too as will just sit there under spring pressure the same as the isolator was.


The original bottom end of the coil fitted the upper mount perfectly. The flange just needed a slight bend depending on how the coil was positioned at the top.


Coils sits on just as planned



Coils are made by King Springs who make it for OME and many others as well. Rear springs are KJRR-28. 210 lb-in rate similar to OME (2)948, but with a 3/4" lower free height.


I got a full set of Bilstein shock absorbers from Summit Racing in the USA sent over. The rears are BSN-24-139175 4600 series. The lengths as the stock so no need to reduce uptravel to fit them. I had no clearance problems with the 245/70R17 tyres on 17x8" wheels with +35 offset. The near stock offset helps a lot in the front especially to stop any rubbing.


Even colour co-ordinates! I added extra isolators that were originally on the bottom perch to the top of the left side as the fuel tank weight pulls this side down. Came out exactly even.


Always hated the danger with screw type spring compressors so thought I might as well use my shop press instead. So very easy and fast to do this way, and much safer. Shifter to hold the shaft while using a ratchet ring spanner to take off the nut.


Old versus new. Bilstein BSN-24-139168 4600 series mono tubes with KJRF-27 King Springs. 400lb-in rate similar to (2)927 OME with 3/4" lower free height.


Reassembly was done the same way.


Already to go back in.


No clearance problems at all and no need to change upper A arm like higher lifts.


To break in the new springs I was finding plenty of humps to flex the suspension and going over 'traffic calming' mounds etc at a faster than normal rate to bed everything in.


Think it still fills out the guard nicely. The higher you go the smaller the tyres look!


So ending up at 50mm/2" higher all round than I started. Depending on where you read, that is 1.5" over stock or 2" in the suspension alignment specifications. http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/alig...-jeep-liberty/ Centre of wheel to underside of the flare is 500mm/19.7" front and 520mm/20.5" rear.


The ride and handling I am very impressed with and far beyond what I expected, or thought possible. It is a great combination and much cheaper than going the OME route. All up, including freight locally and from the USA, it cost me $960. Cost would be no more if you specified KK King coils either from the same eBay seller at $175 a pair inc.

[dan-cj7]

You're a legend Marcus. Your engineering/fabrication skills and tools continue to amaze me.

Keep up the good work.

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by dan-cj7

You're a legend Marcus. Your engineering/fabrication skills and tools continue to amaze me.

Keep up the good work.

Many thanks Dan.

[Gojeep]

The stock lights are pretty bad on the KK. With the plastic lenses, I couldn't run the 145/100W bulbs like my XJ, as would melt them! So thought I would give LED replacement bulbs a try. The Australian and European versions of the Jeep have H4 bulbs with a high and low in one. https://www.stedi.com.au/led-headlig...sion-kits.html


I did a lot of research into picking the right design and a polished solid billet stem with the hooded top set of LEDs to mimic the stock bulbs was best. Learnt a lot after watching this for which type of designs to look out for.

You Tube

and this one, although over a year old now.

You Tube

If you have the extra cash to spend the GTR Lighting Gen 3 Ultra seems to be the way to go and can see the similar design and LEDs used..


These run three hooded for high beam and three hooded for low beam on each side giving a total of 12 LEDs per bulb. They are 5700K to give a clean white light at over 200% more lumens than stock light per bulb. See all the specs here. https://www.stedi.com.au/copper-head...rsion-kit.html


Kit comes with 2 LED bulbs and 2 drivers. Some cars need an extra module to stop the warning light as the CANBUS detects low draw. Just pull the plug off one headlight before ordering and see if a warning comes up. If it does a resister type module is needed to simulate a higher draw. If the LEDs flicker once installed you need a capacitor type module. Usually only a problem if you have DRL lights that run the headlights at a lower voltage by pulsing the power to drop the voltage. I didn't need anything else for this installation.


Did a quick test before installing them to make sure there was no flickering or warning light coming up.


On my version with the H4 bulbs/globes, it is just a matter of pressing the tags on the sides of the plug and pulling the plug off. Then the rubber boot pulls off as well. On the US versions you have to twist a plastic cap to get to the plug.


Release the two springs that hold the bulb in place from the metal clip on the left side. Bulb will now come straight out.


I pushed through the wire and braided heat sinks through the boot, just part of the way to leave enough room to for the holding clips next.


Put the bulb back in and the clips as well.


The wire from the bulbs plug straight into one end of the driver. Make sure you match up the arrows. The other end of the driver cable just plugs into the Jeep's headlight plug and that is all there is to it!


I used the provided cable ties to hold the driver in place on the harness. The braids also need to be fanned out to dissipate the heat.


Left side halogen and right side LED, low beam.


Left side halogen and right side LED, high beam.


Low beam halogen from about 6 meters or 20' away. Notice the stray light stock above the base boards. Any brighter lights are only going to make that worse I'm afraid.


Low beam LED. It does show up the stray light more that was also there with the halogen bulbs. Looks a lot worse in this photo than it really is though and the stray light is less than a cheap torch.


High beam halogen.


High beam LED.


Low beam halogens. Notice the yellow shade. Have to apologise for the street photos as forgot to set the camera to glass through, so the focus is not good. It was nearly 1 am, so didn't feel like shooting them all again!


Low beam LED. Much whiter and brighter light.


High beam halogens.


High beam LED.

[KKnut]

This is great, thanks for the write up. Any plans to do DRLs yourself?

[Gojeep]

Originally Posted by KKnut

This is great, thanks for the write up. Any plans to do DRLs yourself?

As in convert the front fogs to DRL's?

[KKnut]

Originally Posted by Gojeep

As in convert the front fogs to DRL's?

I suppose that could work but I believe it is considered illegal to operate fog lights constantly in some states. Perhaps something else instead, some led light bars have a DRL function in them.