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  #36  
Old 30-11-2017
OzRick25  OzRick25 is offline
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Will be interesting to see how you go with your header bolts.. I have been considering exhaust and header replacement but am loathe to try and remove mine if they aren't completely fried in fear of snapping one. Just getting my trans case bash plate off will be a massive job.
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Last edited by OzRick25; 30-11-2017 at 03:33 PM.
  #37  
Old 30-11-2017
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Yeah, I'm sort of dreading that part. But at least there shouldn't be as much mud etc concreting them up...
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  #38  
Old 30-11-2017
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Sound is good. Louder than stock but quieter than what I had. You can hear it under acceleration or engine braking from 4kRPM, but sitting at lights idling, I can barely hear it. The inlet noise & Donaldson Topspin are generally louder when accelerating than the muffler!

I'll call this a win!
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  #39  
Old 08-12-2017
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Got the headers & cats back from the coating shop...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xv8uT05DqxnvlSXX2


And unwrapped them.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UPxqCVXyPZ7V4BrB2


...with a nice satin black thermal ceramic coating.

Now for the 'fun' part of trying to get the OEM headers off without breaking any studs...
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  #40  
Old 08-12-2017
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Quote:
Now for the 'fun' part of trying to get the OEM headers off without breaking any studs...
LOL...... good luck, may the Jeep Gods smile on your efforts.

BTW, i needed to trim of the metal tailshaft shield on the cross pipe as it touched my front shaft at full droop.
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  #41  
Old 09-12-2017
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Well, BUGGER!

No, I haven't broken any. Several have been very tight to start, but an hour or so after squirting with what I read as being the most effective penetrating spray, they have all come loose... so far. (50/50 acetone & ATF: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-bolts.773380/ )

Quote:
Recently an article was passed along to me from Machinist Workshop Magazine.
They tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts & bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a salt water solution.

The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded.

The break out torque required for:
Nothing = 516 ft. lbs.
WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs.
PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs.
Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs.
Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs.
50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone = 50 ft. lbs.
Except for the one at the very front on the right. I couldn't get the socket to sit on it properly by feel and it was dark so I couldn't see well. After a couple of attempts to get onto it, I got a torch. It looked a bit strange at first, then I realised why... It has no bolt head on it!

Looks like it snapped off some time after assembly as the top is as rusty as the rest of the area... Over torqued during assembly, maybe?

edit: Aaaaaand the one I was most dreading, very back on the left side, is the same as the front one on the right. Just threads, no bolt head. Couldn't see it until I got the heat shield off, the bottom stud that secures it, BTW, did snap. It was turning, a little, a little more, SNAP. Not a bit deal, though. Don't need that one afterwards.
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Last edited by Banshee; 09-12-2017 at 11:29 AM.
  #42  
Old 11-12-2017
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Well spent the weekend replacing the headers. Took all day Saturday just to get the old ones out!

Had to disconnect the coil pack & those 2 huge conectors near it, and pull wires and bracket out if the way to get the left side header in. Cutting the heat shield to fit was a royal PITA & it still doesn't really 'fit', but it's on. I also still don't like how close the top O2 sensor wire runs to the headers on the left side either.

Still it's all together & after a couple of false starts it's all running again. (One of those huge conecters wasn't clamped shut while it looksed like it was. Funnily enough, the engine wouldn't start... ) It was smoking quite a lot, but that would be due to either the penetrant cooking off or the high temp silicone that I used to hold the gasket in place & help seal it getting roasted. I'll see soon enough.

Also have to look more into clamping the pipes, as I don't think they are all completely sealed in the cat back part. Even though I tightened them so much that those pipe sections are NOT coming apart. With no welding, the clamps were tight enough to crimp the pipes together.

Now I just have to see how it goes for running & if my codes come back.
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