Cut some brackets to support the cross member. These will pick up the original holes in the cross member still left after shortening it.
Also from the same piece of 3/6" tubing, cut some angle pieces to cap the end of the cross member and pass under the frame to pick up the threaded mounts that are inside the rail done earlier before boxing it.
Fitted some anti crush tubes for the slotted holes. I will extend cross member pressing to go over them.
Here you can see how it worked out. This greatly strengthens the mount at the end.
Bracket welded into place. It was first tacked into position after all the bolts were in place. Then the cross member was removed and a sash clamp run from one side of the frame to the other and tightened. The welding was then done one at a time and allowed to cool in-between. This was to keep the frame straight and not bend outwards with the weld heat.
The shape of the upper bracket was to allow the brake and fuel lines to pass by as well as the wiring harness without getting too close to the exhaust which may run down the inside.
Both inner and outer sets of bolts are at the same height, so no additional ground clearance was lost.
It doesn't look to obtrusive.
Bolted in the driveshaft to make sure things I fit around it don't interfere. Unfortunately too short to use due to the wheel base differences.
A driveshaft from a diesel or V6 petrol version has the extra 1.5" I need, but are nearly $1500 here! As you cannot replace the uni's on these once worn out, second-hand is not really a option. May machine up a spacer instead if I can get use of a lathe. The transfercase end has the same bolt pattern as a Corolla, so could even use a wheel spacer!
The mount braces still clear the engine fine.
Also plenty of room for the steering shaft. It needs to be extended 7" though to reach the firewall. If anyone knows of another Jeep shaft that may suit, or from other car, let me know please.
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